New assortment

Granatnaja is a Russian cultivar of crataegosorbus - a medium-sized tree with edible fruit. Its leaves are odd-pinnate, with lanceolate to elliptical, finely serrated leaflets that resemble hawthorn more than rowan, reflecting its hybrid origin. In autumn, the foliage turns vibrant shades of red-orange to deep purple, giving the tree striking seasonal character. The flowers appear in May—white, clustered in corymbs, and delicately fragrant, attracting pollinators like bees and butterflies. The fruits ripen from late August to September. They are pomegranate-red, cherry-sized, with orange to dark red flesh. The flavor is sweet-tart, mildly astringent, but without the bitterness typical of wild rowan berries. The fruits can be eaten fresh but are also excellent for jams, compotes, drying, or fruit wines. They remain on the tree even after the leaves fall, which is appreciated by both birds and gardeners looking to extend the harvest. The tree naturally forms a compact crown and grows to about 4–6 meters tall. Its growth is balanced, with no tendency to become leggy or overgrown, so it maintains a tidy appearance even without pruning.

‘Granatnaja’ works well as a specimen tree or as part of an edible hedge or so-called food forest, where it serves both ornamental and practical purposes. Thanks to its compact growth and attractive fruit, it fits beautifully into naturalistic gardens but also holds its own in urban plantings. It pairs well with shrubs like European cornelian cherry, medlar, sea buckthorn, or black chokeberry—all of which share similar growing needs and offer complementary flavors and colors. And you’ll surely appreciate a few nut-bearing companions nearby, such as hazel. Its autumn colors and long-lasting fruit add depth and seasonal rhythm to any planting.

Crataegosorbus is undemanding. It thrives best in full sun but tolerates partial shade. It prefers loamy or sandy-loam soil, from dry to moderately moist, with a pH ranging from slightly acidic to mildly alkaline. In the first years after planting, it’s advisable to stake the main shoot to encourage a straight trunk. Pruning is not essential, but light thinning in late winter supports healthy growth and fruiting. The fruits are easy to harvest, and the branches naturally straighten after the crop is removed. It is fully hardy down to –34 °C (USDA zone 4), making it well suited even for mountainous regions of Central Europe.

Last update 15-09-2025.

Burka is a unique hybrid rowan, growing to a height of around 3–5 meters, making it ideal for smaller gardens. Its habit is compact, with a naturally shaped, dense crown. Flowers appear from April to May, white and arranged in corymbs, attracting pollinators with their gentle fragrance. But the real magic comes at the end of summer, when the fruit begins to form – dark purple, almost black berries about 2 cm in size, ripening from August to September. The flesh is surprisingly yellow, juicy, and mildly tart, with hints of chokeberry and rowan. Unlike typical rowan berries, Burka’s fruit is not bitter – it can be eaten straight from the tree or used in the kitchen. Rich in vitamin C, antioxidants, and tannins that aid digestion, the berries are traditionally used in Russia for jams, compotes, wines, and dried fruit for tea blends. In modern cooking, they’re perfect for preserves, fermented drinks, or as a decorative touch on the plate. The fruit remains on the tree even after the leaves have fallen, appreciated by both birds and gardeners enjoying a late harvest.

The deciduous leaves of 'Burka' are a fascinating botanical curiosity. They are odd-pinnately compound (though not always!) and consist of several broadly elliptical leaflets with finely serrated edges, resembling those of aronia rather than rowan. What makes them particularly interesting is that the terminal leaflet is the largest, with the leaflets gradually decreasing in size toward the base of the rachis – a complete reversal of the typical rowan leaf pattern. They are dark green, slightly glossy, and turn purplish-red in autumn, making the tree an attractive focal point even after its flowers have faded. Don’t be discouraged by the drooping branches during fruiting, caused by the weight of the berries — they straighten up again after harvest. Thanks to its size, 'Burka' is suitable not only as a standalone specimen, but also for hedges or as part of edible landscapes, where it serves both aesthetic and practical purposes.
It pairs beautifully with shrubs like hazel, serviceberry, or elderberry, which complement its fruits both in flavor and appearance.

Hybrid rowan is undemanding. It tolerates sun and partial shade, prefers moist, well-drained soil, ideally slightly acidic. If you choose to grow 'Burka' as a single-stem tree, it’s recommended to stake the leader in the early years to encourage a straight trunk. Thanks to its naturally compact form, 'Burka' rarely requires intensive shaping. Pruning, if any, can be done in late winter – remove weak or damaged branches and lightly thin the crown. This promotes healthy growth, abundant flowering, and fruiting. It is hardy down to –34 °C (USDA zone 4), making it perfectly suited to colder climates and mountainous regions. 

Last update 15-09-2025.

When you look at this baby’s breath, it resembles a dainty alpine flower more than its robust florist cousins. Its blooms are perfectly symmetrical, as if cut from paper using the same stencil. They are small, white to pale pink, with fine veining that looks like a watercolour brushstroke. In parts of Tibet, it is affectionately called the “stone fairy,” as it grows directly from crevices between rocks, where most plants would long have given up. Its growth is strictly ground-hugging, forming dense, uninterrupted mats without empty holes. Only during flowering does it gently rise above the foliage to reveal its blossoms. The leaves are oval to obovate, medium green, covered with tiny hairs but glossy, and evergreen. It flowers from late spring to early summer, with blooms appearing gradually, as if each one wants its own moment to shine. It’s not a plant that impresses with size, but its subtlety and intricate beauty make it a true gem for rock gardens.

In the garden, it’s best suited for rockeries, stone walls, or gravel beds, where its natural habit can shine. It pairs beautifully with low-growing sedums, thymes, pulsatillas, gentians, senecios, or soapworts, which provide contrasting colours. In modern naturalistic plantings, it serves as a gentle filler among bolder species, but in minimalist designs, it can easily take the spotlight. Its creeping habit also makes it ideal for softening the edges of rockeries and walls.

It’s not demanding in terms of care, but it does require well-drained soil – ideally with added gravel or sand. It loves full sun, dislikes waterlogging, but unlike typical drought-tolerant plants, it occasionally appreciates a light watering. It’s hardy down to -34 °C (USDA zone 4), making it suitable for cold climates. Surprisingly, it also performs well in containers, provided it gets plenty of sun, good drainage, and occasional gentle watering.

Last update 15-09-2025

SEDUCTION® ROSE CHARM stonecrop is part of the Seduction® breeding series developed by the Dutch company Florensis. This cultivar quickly gained popularity thanks to its compact growth habit, abundant flowering, and attractive appearance. It produces small, star-shaped flowers composed of soft pink petals and a pale-yellow center, which darkens as the flower matures into purplish seed capsules. The flowers are arranged in flat corymb-like inflorescences that appear from late summer into autumn. The leaves are fleshy, oval, light pea green, with a subtle purplish tint when young. The plant reaches a height of around 30–40 cm and roughly the same width. Thanks to its low and dense growth, it forms an elegant cushion that expands into a lush clump each year. For a lower growth habit, the entire plant can be cut back by half around mid-June.

In the garden, SEDUCTION® ROSE CHARM works well as a groundcover perennial or as the front edge of a perennial border. It pairs beautifully with other succulents such as houseleeks (Sempervivum) or ice plants (Delosperma), as well as with fine-leaved grasses like feather grass (Stipa) or fescue (Festuca). It also stands out next to silvery foliage plants like woolly betony (Stachys byzantina), dusty miller (Jacobaea), or dark-leaved cultivars of tall stonecrops. In modern gardens, it serves as a subtle colour accent, while in cottage-style gardens it continues the tradition of stonecrops beloved by our grandmothers. Thanks to its late flowering, it provides bees and butterflies with a valuable nectar source at the end of the season. The cultivar is protected by European patent No. 60210, issued in 2022.

It needs very well-drained soil and doesn’t tolerate excess moisture – heavy soil or constantly wet spots may cause root and stem rot. Beyond that, care is minimal: no fertilizing, pruning, or winter protection required. In spring, remove old stems by cutting them close to the ground and allow fresh growth to emerge from below. Don't snap the stems off—use pruning shears to avoid damaging new buds forming at the base, often already present from the previous autumn. Watch out for slugs and act promptly if they appear. Night Embers is hardy down to approx. –40 °C (USDA zone 3).

Last update 15-09-2025

The botanical species of the rice-paper plant is a true head-turner. Do you remember when you last saw someone or something so beautiful that you forgot where you were walking and, turning your head, almost ended up bumping into a lamppost? What a classic movie gig! But this can easily happen here, I am telling you! 😊

It bears enormous, medium green, palmate, deeply lobed leaves, usually with 5 to 7 lobes that have slightly wavy edges. The width of the leaves ranges from 60 to 80 cm, occasionally reaching up to a meter, and they are carried on long, hollow petioles that emerge from the top of an unbranched stem. Each lobe—the tip of the leaf—ends in two smaller sub-lobes, resembling the claws of a giant lizard or a rooster on steroids. The overall impression is wild, as if nature designed it for a tropical thriller.

Depending on the climate zone where it is grown, it can be a deciduous shrub or semi-woody perennial up to 2–2.5 meters tall (in Central Europe), or a small evergreen tree reaching up to 5 meters (in subtropical regions). The surface of the leaves and young shoots is covered with fine rusty hairs, which may cause skin irritation in highly sensitive individuals. In subtropical climates and greenhouses, it can bloom in late summer with creamy white flowers arranged in spherical clusters that are highly attractive to pollinators. After flowering, small black fruits develop.

In 2007, renowned British gardener Christopher Lloyd mentioned Tetrapanax in his book Exotic Planting for Adventurous Gardeners, describing it as a plant with a prehistoric look and dramatic effect. The Rex cultivar has become an icon of jungle-style gardens that mimic tropical vegetation. Interestingly, even young plants produce enormous leaves, which is unusual for woody species. In some regions, Tetrapanax spreads aggressively via underground runners, earning it the nickname garden Godzilla.

In the garden, Tetrapanax Rex acts as a bold focal point, adding an exotic and architectural character to the composition. It fits well in subtropical borders, alongside modern homes, or in urban gardens where it stands out against clean lines. It pairs beautifully with hardy bananas and hardy begonias, or with dark- or bold-leaved perennials such as ligularia, cimicifuga, or rodgersia. For contrast, it also works well with larger clumps of fine-leaved grasses like Pennisetum, Panicum, or Deschampsia. Due to its size, it is best suited for larger spaces, but it can also be grown in large containers. Due to its massive leaves, other plants may struggle to thrive beneath it, so it’s best used as a dominant feature.

Chinese rice-paper plant prefers sunny to partially shaded locations, sheltered from strong winds. The soil should be humus-rich, well-drained, yet evenly moist – this plant does not tolerate waterlogging, especially in winter. During the growing season, it benefits from regular watering and feeding with a general-purpose fertilizer for leafy plants. In autumn, it’s advisable to mulch generously and protect the root crown from frost using straw, conifer branches, or bark. Under ideal growing conditions the plant tends to form runners, which can create dense colonies. Young plants are best overwintered in a cool, bright space and planted outdoors only when they are strong enough. Verified root hardiness reaches down to –24 °C (–11 °F), while above-ground parts may die back at around –10 °C (14 °F). Depending on the severity of the frost, the plant will re-emerge in spring either from the tips of undamaged stems or from the roots, and we are happy to confirm that in Central Europe, not a single specimen has died so far. Tetrapanax is not toxic, but its hairs may be irritating, so gloves are recommended when handling. It can be grown in large containers, but these must be stored frost-free during winter.

Last update: 14-09-2025

Rex is a fast-growing cultivar of the rice-paper plant with enormous and strikingly exotic leaves. Depending on the climate zone, it can grow as a deciduous shrub or semi-woody perennial up to 2–2.5 meters tall in Central Europe, or as a small evergreen tree reaching up to 5 meters in subtropical regions. Its gigantic leaves are deeply lobed, up to a meter wide, held on long and sturdy petioles that rarely break. This cultivar is recognizable by the regular cutouts along the leaf edges, as if shaped with cookie cutters. The surface of the leaves and young shoots are covered with fine rusty hairs, which may cause skin irritation in sensitive individuals. In subtropical climates or greenhouses, it can bloom in late summer with creamy white flowers arranged in spherical clusters that are highly attractive to pollinators. After flowering, small black fruits develop.

In 2007, renowned British gardener Christopher Lloyd mentioned Tetrapanax in his book Exotic Planting for Adventurous Gardeners, describing it as a plant with a prehistoric look and dramatic effect. The Rex cultivar has become an icon of jungle-style gardens that mimic tropical vegetation. Interestingly, even young plants produce enormous leaves, which is unusual for woody species. In some regions, Tetrapanax spreads aggressively via underground runners, earning it the nickname garden Godzilla.

In the garden, Tetrapanax Rex acts as a bold focal point, adding an exotic and architectural character to the composition. It fits well in subtropical borders, alongside modern homes, or in urban gardens where it stands out against clean lines. It pairs beautifully with hardy bananas and hardy begonias, or with dark- or bold-leaved perennials such as ligularia, cimicifuga, or rodgersia. For contrast, it also works well with larger clumps of fine-leaved grasses like Pennisetum, Panicum, or Deschampsia. Due to its size, it is best suited for larger spaces, but it can also be grown in large containers. Due to its massive leaves, other plants may struggle to thrive beneath it, so it’s best used as a dominant feature.

Chinese rice-paper plant prefers sunny to partially shaded locations, sheltered from strong winds. The soil should be humus-rich, well-drained, yet evenly moist – this plant does not tolerate waterlogging, especially in winter. During the growing season, it benefits from regular watering and feeding with a general-purpose fertilizer for leafy plants. In autumn, it’s advisable to mulch generously and protect the root crown from frost using straw, conifer branches, or bark. Under ideal growing conditions the plant tends to form runners, which can create dense colonies. Young plants are best overwintered in a cool, bright space and planted outdoors only when they are strong enough. Verified root hardiness reaches down to –24 °C (–11 °F), while above-ground parts may die back at around –10 °C (14 °F). Depending on the severity of the frost, the plant will re-emerge in spring either from the tips of undamaged stems or from the roots, and we are happy to confirm that in Central Europe, not a single specimen has died so far. Tetrapanax is not toxic, but its hairs may be irritating, so gloves are recommended when handling. It can be grown in large containers, but these must be stored frost-free during winter.

Last update: 14-09-2025

Not many growers specialize in breeding Rose-of-Sharon, so when someone devotes themselves to it purposefully and over the long term, they soon become recognized in their field. One such prominent research station is Hortival Diffusion in France — the new name for the Minier nursery, founded already in 1838 in Anjou. They have been working on hibiscus breeding since the 1960s, with Claude Bellion as the head of the breeding programme. Under his direction, large-flowered cultivars such as Pink Giant and Russian Violet (1970) were developed. His role was later taken over by Patrick Pineau, and as of 2025, the programme is coordinated by Pierre Chaussard. Thanks to their work, we can now enjoy improved older varieties like SUP’BRIDGE and SUP’HEART, the double-flowered French Cabaret® series, and the Chateau® series, which is currently gaining popularity mainly in the USA. New cultivars continue to emerge, and thanks to our longstanding partnership with the Minier nursery, we’re proud to present their latest innovations as they become available.

B'TWIST® LAVENDER variety brings another improvement to the already well‑known pink‑flowered cultivars of Rose-of-Sharon. Its blooms are enormous: 10–12 cm in diameter, with a clear lilac‑pink hue and a striking centre of a purplish‑red eye, whose rays burst like fireworks halfway into the petals. The pale cream column with stigmas and anthers in the middle — a typical feature of the entire mallow family (e.g. mallows or hollyhocks) — is not particularly conspicuous here, and is partly hidden by several small, stunted petals. B'TWIST® LAVENDER grows into an attractive, upright, healthy shrub, putting on about 30 cm of growth per year, reaching a mature height of 2.5–3 metres. It retains an upright, densely branched habit and strong stems that easily bear the profusion of flowers from July to September. In 2020, it was awarded ADR by the Royal Horticultural Society in England.

It has very decorative leaves that are unique. They are shallowly lobed, palmate, mid to dark green and coarsely toothed. If they turn yellow in summer the plant manifests too much water at the roots. They are either overwatered or planted in too heavy soil where it has not established yet. 

Pruning is an issue that always gets me started here. Hard pruning leads to larger flowers, that's true, but also production of long, immature, flexible twigs. The only cut I recommend is such that rejuvenates old plans – prune it hard in early spring by 50-75 % and let it grow for another 10 years or so. Rose-of-Sharon is quite adaptable of soil type. It can take drought but does not look good if dry for too long. It loves moisture fully established plants thrive on occasional flooding in summer, but you cannot transplant it into standing water. Old plants dislike peat. Selective fertilizers enhancing flowering are convenient but not crucial. Place it in full sun only. Fully hardy to min. -27 °C (USDA zone 5) and not suitable for pots.

Last update 11-09-2025

If you are passionate about naturalistic gardens, you’ll fall for giant scabious. Its flowers levitate in the breeze with the lightness of a woodland fairy, looking as though they were crocheted by moonlight. They are delicate, butter‑yellow, dome-shaped spheres that hover high above the border – not shouting for attention but whispering elegance. The inflorescences are made up of dozens of tiny tubular florets, each with its own crown, ready to welcome a bumblebee or butterfly. The stems that carry them are upright, slender, and strong, reaching over two metres in height. Yet they appear weightless, as if holding themselves aloft. They are neither heavy nor coarse – more like blades of grass that decided to grow into the sky. Flowering reliably from late spring to mid‑summer, they benefit from having the spent flowering stems cut back to the base of the leaf rosette or to the first strong leaf on the stem, which prolongs the display and keeps the plant tidy.

While the flowers rest with their heads in the clouds and sway in the breeze with an almost otherworldly grace, the plant’s feet are anchored in a massive rosette of slightly downy leaves, reminiscent of a dandelion in giant form. Each leaf is deeply lobed, lanceolate to oblong, with a prominent midrib and finely toothed edges. In summer they shine with fresh green, forming a sturdy, rustic contrast to the delicate blooms above. With the arrival of the first cool nights in late summer, their colour begins to shift – darker tones seep into the veins until the entire leaf turns maroon, lending the plant a dramatic autumn presence.

In a perennial border, giant scabious serves as an airy architectural element, adding both height and lightness. It most often belongs at the back, unless you’re creating island beds where you want to raise the centre. It fits beautifully into naturalistic plantings, where it can dance freely among yarrows, coneflowers, cornflowers, or verbenas. Paired with ornamental grasses such as stipa, calamagrostis, or pennisetum, the planting gains movement and a subtly shifting structure. Alongside taller varieties of romantic perennials – such as gauras, flowering sages or knautia – the contrast between the softness of its blooms and the richness of its neighbours’ colours is striking. At the back of a mixed border, it creates a light, translucent backdrop that allows shorter plants in the foreground to shine, while visually uniting the whole composition.

Giant scabious is a surprisingly undemanding and adaptable perennial. It thrives best in full sun or light partial shade, sheltered from strong winds that could topple its tall stems. It prefers deep, fertile, well‑drained soil, ideally slightly alkaline to neutral, but will tolerate ordinary garden soil as long as it isn’t waterlogged. Once established, it can handle short dry spells, though it appreciates occasional watering in hot summers. It reproduces by seed but is not invasive; to prevent self‑seeding, remove spent flowers before the seeds ripen. In early spring, before new growth emerges, cut back all above‑ground parts. Fully hardy in USDA zones 4–9 (to about –34 °C), it is a long‑lived perennial that will remain vigorous for many years in the same spot, though it benefits from occasional division in spring or autumn.

Last update 12-09-2025

Metallica Crispa is a striking cultivar of pyramidal bugleweed, a species native to alpine regions of Europe. Unlike the more vigorous A. reptans, this form grows in compact rosettes and spreads slowly. Its foliage is highly ornamental and semi-evergreen in mild climates. The leaves have a metallic sheen and range in colour from deep green to bronze-purple and nearly black, depending on light and season. Their surface is puckered and blistered, with wavy edges that give the plant a sculptural texture. The leaves form a dense, low mat, and from late spring to late summer, the plant produces short, about 25 cm tall, upright spikes of deep blue to violet two-lipped flowers. The plant’s size without flowers is typically about 10-15 cm tall and 40-50 cm in width. Propagation occurs via short rhizomes, and the plant is notably resistant to soil-borne diseases that often affect A. reptans.

The origin of Metallica Crispa remains undocumented. It is listed as a recognized cultivar in databases such as the Royal Horticultural Society, but without attribution to a breeder or date of introduction. Based on available records, it likely emerged as a garden selection in Western Europe – possibly in the UK or Germany – sometime in the 20th century. The earliest confirmed herbarium specimen dates to 1999, collected in Surrey, England by K. Simpson. However, nursery catalogues suggest it was already in circulation by the 1980s, and it has since become a reliable fixture in European horticulture. The lack of formal registration implies it was propagated vegetatively and adopted informally, which is common for older perennial selections.

In garden design, bugleweed excels as a groundcover for partial shade or dappled light. It pairs beautifully with brunneras, hostas, heucheras, ornamental grasses, and ferns – especially in contrasting colour schemes. It also performs well in lightly shaded but not too dry rock gardens, between stones, or as a border edging. Its dark foliage provides a dramatic backdrop for pale-flowering perennials. In containers, it works as a trailing accent, particularly alongside small-flowered annuals, adding depth and texture to mixed plantings.

This cultivar is low-maintenance and adaptable. It thrives in humus-rich, well-drained soils of any pH, with moderate moisture, and prefers partial shade. It is fully hardy down to –37 °C (USDA zone 3) and highly resistant to pests and diseases. As a member of Ajuga pyramidalis, it maintains a compact form without stolons, remaining stable in its location. If the plant begins to decline, it’s usually due to environmental stress rather than natural migration. Occasional division and replanting will rejuvenate it and help maintain vigour. In containers, be mindful of overwatering.

Last update 11-09-2025

Following this lineage is the modern cultivar BLOOM ME AWAY, bred in the Netherlands by Garry Grueber. It originated as a selection from open pollination of other hybrid cranesbills in 2012 in the growing area of Warmond. Its flowers are notable for always facing upwards and turning towards the sun during the day. They are five petalled, blue to blue violet with pronounced purple veining and yellow pollen, measuring about 4 cm in diameter. Flowers are borne in pairs in axillary cymes, with an average of 16 buds and 4 open flowers per lateral stem at any one time. Flowering naturally begins in July and continues until October, with buds opening gradually every 2–3 days. The flowers are self cleaning and require no deadheading. As a vegetatively propagated cultivar, its traits remain stable, though flower colour intensity and flowering density may vary slightly depending on light and temperature conditions.

This perennial has a compact, slightly spreading to cushion forming habit, reaching about 20 cm in height and up to 45 cm in width. It produces dense basal branching – around 20 lateral shoots on average – and quickly covers the ground with a continuous mat of foliage. The stems are slender and flexible, up to 45 cm long, and the deciduous leaves are as attractive as the flowers. They are opposite, palmately divided into deep lobes, finely serrated, rich green, and softly hairy on both sides. In high summer temperatures, small red speckles may appear on the leaves – not a disease, but a natural stress response. The cultivar is protected by U.S. Plant Patent No. PP32481, granted in 2020.

Thanks to its compact growth, long flowering period, and heat tolerance, BLOOM ME AWAY is ideal for perennial borders, the front of mixed beds, urban plantings, naturalistic gardens, and as a groundcover under small trees and shrubs on sunny sides, where it will bloom profusely. It also performs well in containers on terraces and balconies (recommended pot diameter at least 25 cm). In full bloom, it creates a continuous carpet of colour that attracts pollinators, and after flowering it remains decorative thanks to its foliage.

Hybrids of Geranium wallichianum thrive best in full sun to light partial shade, in well drained, moderately fertile, and slightly moist soil that must not remain waterlogged. They tolerate ordinary garden conditions but appreciate regular watering during hot spells. After flowering, spent stems and older leaves can be cut back to encourage fresh foliage and maintain a compact shape. Feeding is an option, not a must. It is hardy down to about –34 °C (USDA Zone 4) and can also be grown in containers.

Last update 10-09-2025

Father Hugo’s Rose belongs to the group of botanical roses with fine, delicate leaflets. It was first described by British botanist William Botting Hemsley at the end of the 19th century. The species was named after Scottish missionary and plant collector Reverend William Hugo, who discovered it in central China and sent it to Europe around 1899, where it quickly gained admiration for its early and abundant flowering. In the wild, it grows in central and northern China – from Sichuan and Gansu through Shanxi to Manchuria – and in Korea. It can be found on sunny slopes, in thickets, and along the edges of light woodlands, often high in the mountains, up to 2,300 metres above sea level. At the time of its discovery, it was one of the few known roses with a pure yellow flower, which caused quite a stir in Europe and sparked great interest among breeders as well as rose collectors.

The flowers appear singly on new shoots and are a true ornament – five delicate petals in shades ranging from pale to rich yellow, about 4–5 cm in diameter. At the centre are golden stamens that attract bees. After flowering, it produces small, reddish‑brown hips. It blooms very early, often in the second half of April, when most roses are only just budding, and it pairs beautifully with gardens where magnolias in pink shades are in bloom. As a botanical species, it can vary slightly in its details – some plants have paler or deeper yellow flowers, denser or sparser thorns, larger or smaller hips, and even the size of the leaves can differ. In the wild and in cultivation, it can be confused with related species, especially Rosa xanthina. Its deciduous foliage is very attractive: pinnate leaves are composed of 7 to 15 finely serrated, matte green leaflets that turn yellow in autumn.

Father Hugo’s Rose forms upright to slightly arching shrubs, 2–3 m tall and wide, occasionally more. It grows at a moderate rate – adding about 30–40 cm per year. The branches are slender and densely covered with fine, straight thorns, which may be reddish on young shoots. It is ideal for informal hedges, as a lawn specimen, or in naturalistic plantings. It is also well suited to public greenery – hardy, undemanding, and flowering at a time when other roses are still dormant. In addition, it is very healthy, resistant to common diseases and pests, tolerant of poorer soils, and unfazed by frost.

It thrives best in full sun and well‑drained, moderately fertile soil. It will tolerate drier sites but appreciates watering when forming buds. It is not fussy about soil pH. It flowers only once a year, but very profusely. Pruning is not essential, but possible – after flowering, you can remove old, weakly flowering stems to encourage new growth, or shape it into a hedge, either after flowering or in early spring before leaf‑out. It is fully hardy to at least –29 °C (USDA Zone 5), so it overwinters without problems even in harsher climates. Due to its size and deep root system, it is not suitable for long‑term container growing – it performs best in open ground.

Last update 09-09-2025

Little Lady abelia is an attractive, evergreen to semi‑evergreen, slow‑growing shrub that flowers profusely from mid‑summer until the first frosts. The small, tubular blooms are almost white with a delicate pink blush, pleasantly fragrant, and irresistible to butterflies and other pollinators. Their charm is enhanced by prominent purplish calyces that persist after the petals fall, extending the ornamental effect well into autumn, almost as if the plant bloomed a second time, now in a different colour.

The leaves are small, elliptic to ovate, and highly glossy, giving the shrub a lush appearance even before flowering begins. Over the growing season, their colour shifts from bright green in spring to deeper summer shades, and finally to coppery tones in autumn. Naturally forming a broad, rounded to dome-shaped, the mature plant reaches about 50–100 cm in both height and width. Dense branching creates a rich, continuous canopy without gaps, making it ideal for smaller gardens, front yards, or container planting. 

Little Lady originated as a spontaneous mutation of the cultivar ‘Prostrata’, discovered in August 2015 by Klemens Keysers at his nursery in Kevelaer, Germany. Since 2020, it has been protected under U.S. Plant Patent PP31,410. The dense, compact habit of this variety makes it almost universally adaptable – pair it with dwarf conifers for a flowering accent that doesn’t demand much space; combine it in evergreen arrangements with contrasting foliage shapes (such as Prunus laurocerasus ‘Sofia’, reddening leucothoe, or hardy euphorbia); mix it with other fine‑leafed shrubs (choisya, hebe, berberis); or plant it among drought‑tolerant species (caryopteris, vitex, arbutus, ornamental grasses) for a low‑maintenance display.

Abelias love full sun and once established they are notably drought‑tolerant requiring no extra watering even in dry summers. In spring, they can be shaped with a light trim but also tolerate hard rejuvenation pruning into older wood. Older encyclopedias often list them as marginally hardy in our C.E. climate, but long‑term trials have shown they grow and bloom even after severe winters. Only in higher elevations should they be placed in a spot sheltered from harsh, freezing winds. Abelias are completely undemanding regarding soil, coping even with clay subsoils – provided they are not left standing in water during their first year after planting. ‘Little Lady’ is hardy to at least –29 °C without any protection (USDA zone 5).

Last update 07-09-2025

ELFIN SWAN™ anemone forms a compact clump approximately 35–45 cm tall, under ideal conditions yet some 20-30 cm taller, from which sturdy, upright, and delicately branched stems emerge. Its single flowers are 4–6 cm in diameter, pure white on the front and strikingly bluish-purple on the reverse, typically with 6–8 petals and a yellow center of stamens. The leaves are medium-sized, deep green, deeply palmately lobed, and coarsely toothed at the edges. They form a dense basal foliage that enhances the bicolor effect of the flowers and adds ornamental value even outside the blooming period – which is almost a contradiction, as this anemone can bloom from June all the way into autumn under favourable conditions. It is considered the most compact of the entire Swan series and is protected by the U.S. Plant Patent PP30,496, granted in 2019.
 
It excels in the front sections of mixed perennial borders, where its compact habit allows the white flowers with bluish-purple undersides to shine above the darker foliage of surrounding plants. In light partial shade under trees or taller shrubs, it creates a regular rhythm of blooms from June to October, beautifully complementing other long-flowering perennials such as geraniums. It pairs well with the contrasting foliage of many heucheras and is also striking when combined with ferns or tiarella. Let your imagination run wild: plant dark-leaved heuchera on one side and a golden-leaved variety of hakone grass on the other, and you’ll have a true spectacle!

It thrives best in a location with well-drained, humus-rich, and evenly moist soil, ideally in partial shade where it is protected from harsh midday sun. It can tolerate full sun if adequately watered, and in light shade under trees or shrubs it maintains its compact shape and abundant flowering. Regular watering during dry periods is essential, especially in the first years after planting, along with occasional feeding with compost or fertilizer for flowering perennials. Removing spent flower stems continuously encourages new bud formation and extends the blooming period. It is fully hardy to approximately −34 °C (USDA zone 4), so it does not require winter protection in most conditions. However, in areas with bare frosts, a light mulch of leaves or evergreen branches is appreciated, and year-round bark mulch helps prevent rapid drying.

Last update 07-09-2025

Not many growers specialize in breeding Rose-of-Sharon, so when someone devotes themselves to it purposefully and over the long term, they soon become recognized in their field. One such prominent research station is Hortival Diffusion in France — the new name for the Minier nursery, founded already in 1838 in Anjou. They have been working on hibiscus breeding since the 1960s, with Claude Bellion as the head of the breeding programme. Under his direction, large-flowered cultivars such as Pink Giant and Russian Violet (1970) were developed. His role was later taken over by Patrick Pineau, and as of 2025, the programme is coordinated by Pierre Chaussard. Thanks to their work, we can now enjoy improved older varieties like SUP’BRIDGE and SUP’HEART, the double-flowered French Cabaret® series, and the Chateau® series, which is currently gaining popularity mainly in the USA. New cultivars continue to emerge, and thanks to our longstanding partnership with the Minier nursery, we’re proud to present their latest innovations as they become available.

Imagine a shade of blue like the summer sky just before dusk, when its deep hue mingles with a touch of sunset glow. Such is the colour of the stunning BEAUTIFULL® COBALT Rose-of-Sharon, introduced in 2024 and developed by the team of breeders at Hortival Diffusion. Its large blooms, spanning 8–10 cm, provocatively shine in a rich pastel blue‑violet, deeper than that of the famous BLUE CHIFFON® variety. At the centre lies a dark maroon eye with short rays and a lush ring of small, dwarf petals that almost conceal the pale cream‑coloured style with stigmas and anthers – a hallmark of the mallow family (such as mallows and hollyhocks). The shrub grows at a moderate rate (20–30 cm per year) to reach 2–3 m in height, maintaining an upright, densely branched habit and strong stems that easily carry the profusion of flowers BEAUTIFULL® COBALT offers from July to September. It produces few seeds – meaning less mess and a longer, cleaner flowering season.

It has very decorative leaves that are unique. They are shallowly lobed, palmate, mid to dark green and coarsely toothed. If they turn yellow in summer the plant manifests too much water at the roots. They are either overwatered or planted in too heavy soil where it has not established yet. 

Pruning is an issue that always gets me started here. Hard pruning leads to larger flowers, that's true, but also production of long, immature, flexible twigs. The only cut I recommend is such that rejuvenates old plans – prune it hard in early spring by 50-75 % and let it grow for another 10 years or so. Rose-of-Sharon is quite adaptable of soil type. It can take drought but does not look good if dry for too long. It loves moisture fully established plants thrive on occasional flooding in summer, but you cannot transplant it into standing water. Old plants dislike peat. Selective fertilizers enhancing flowering are convenient but not crucial. Place it in full sun only. Fully hardy to min. -27 °C (USDA zone 5) and not suitable for pots.

Last update 01-09-2025

Not many growers specialize in breeding Rose-of-Sharon, so when someone devotes themselves to it purposefully and over the long term, they soon become recognized in their field. One such prominent research station is Hortival Diffusion in France — the new name for the Minier nursery, founded already in 1838 in Anjou. They have been working on hibiscus breeding since the 1960s, with Claude Bellion as the head of the breeding programme. Under his direction, large-flowered cultivars such as Pink Giant and Russian Violet (1970) were developed. His role was later taken over by Patrick Pineau, and as of 2025, the programme is coordinated by Pierre Chaussard. Thanks to their work, we can now enjoy improved older varieties like SUP’BRIDGE and SUP’HEART, the double-flowered French Cabaret® series, and the Chateau® series, which is currently gaining popularity mainly in the USA. New cultivars continue to emerge, and thanks to our longstanding partnership with the Minier nursery, we’re proud to present their latest innovations as they become available.

When you hear the name POMPEI®, most of us think of the famous Roman city that, centuries ago, was buried under tons of volcanic ash. Perhaps it was the image of glowing energy and the dramatic colours of an eruption that inspired the creators of this Rose-of-Sharon to choose a name that conveys the same intensity – its blooms shine from afar like a volcanic explosion, though this time only figuratively and entirely safely. They have a glowing raspberry‑pink hue and a diameter of up to 10 cm, placing this cultivar among the largest‑flowered within the species. The flowers are semi‑double – five large petals are enriched with a ring of smaller, stunted ones that partially conceal the pale cream‑coloured column with stigmas and stamens, typical of the mallow family (e.g., mallows or hollyhocks). They also cover a small red eye in the centre. The shrub grows at a moderate rate (20–30 cm per year) and reaches a height of 2–3 metres, maintaining an upright, densely branched habit. It was first introduced in 2024 and is protected under patent no. PP36672 from 2025.

It has very decorative leaves that are unique. They are shallowly lobed, palmate, mid to dark green and coarsely toothed. If they turn yellow in summer the plant manifests too much water at the roots. They are either overwatered or planted in too heavy soil where it has not established yet. 

Pruning is an issue that always gets me started here. Hard pruning leads to larger flowers, that's true, but also production of long, immature, flexible twigs. The only cut I recommend is such that rejuvenates old plans – prune it hard in early spring by 50-75 % and let it grow for another 10 years or so. Rose-of-Sharon is quite adaptable of soil type. It can take drought but does not look good if dry for too long. It loves moisture fully established plants thrive on occasional flooding in summer, but you cannot transplant it into standing water. Old plants dislike peat. Selective fertilizers enhancing flowering are convenient but not crucial. Place it in full sun only. Fully hardy to min. -27 °C (USDA zone 5) and not suitable for pots.

Last update 31-08-2025

Not many growers specialize in breeding Rose-of-Sharon, so when someone devotes themselves to it purposefully and over the long term, they soon become recognized in their field. One such prominent research station is Hortival Diffusion in France — the new name for the Minier nursery, founded already in 1838 in Anjou. They have been working on hibiscus breeding since the 1960s, with Claude Bellion as the head of the breeding programme. Under his direction, large-flowered cultivars such as Pink Giant and Russian Violet (1970) were developed. His role was later taken over by Patrick Pineau, and as of 2025, the programme is coordinated by Pierre Chaussard. Thanks to their work, we can now enjoy improved older varieties like SUP’BRIDGE and SUP’HEART, the double-flowered French Cabaret® series, and the Chateau® series, which is currently gaining popularity mainly in the USA. New cultivars continue to emerge, and thanks to our longstanding partnership with the Minier nursery, we’re proud to present their latest innovations as they become available.

IGLOO® is a Rose-of-Sharon cultivar which is, in a word, stunning, and its name is spot-on – a glance at the flower evokes a cold igloo, which in this case will not melt. On the contrary, it seeks out the summer sun and basks in it. The flowers are white with delicately cool bluish edges, as if they wanted to sip ink but changed their mind at the last moment, ending up just a pale bluish-violet. They are large, with a small red eye at the center and a pale cream column topped with stigmas and stamens – typical of the mallow family (such as mallows or hollyhocks). The column is partially hidden among several smaller, stunted petals. The shrub grows at a moderate rate (20–30 cm per year) and reaches a height of 2–3 meters, maintaining an upright, densely branched habit. It was first introduced in 2024.

It has very decorative leaves that are unique. They are shallowly lobed, palmate, mid to dark green and coarsely toothed. If they turn yellow in summer the plant manifests too much water at the roots. They are either overwatered or planted in too heavy soil where it has not established yet. 

Pruning is an issue that always gets me started here. Hard pruning leads to larger flowers, that's true, but also production of long, immature, flexible twigs. The only cut I recommend is such that rejuvenates old plans – prune it hard in early spring by 50-75 % and let it grow for another 10 years or so. Rose-of-Sharon is quite adaptable of soil type. It can take drought but does not look good if dry for too long. It loves moisture fully established plants thrive on occasional flooding in summer, but you cannot transplant it into standing water. Old plants dislike peat. Selective fertilizers enhancing flowering are convenient but not crucial. Place it in full sun only. Fully hardy to min. -27 °C (USDA zone 5) and not suitable for pots.

Last update 31-08-2025

Royal Ruby is an older cultivar of coral bells, believed to have been developed by Alan Bloom of Bressingham Gardens (UK) around 1953. Bloom was a prominent British horticulturist who began developing the gardens at Bressingham Hall in Norfolk in 1953, specializing in perennials and pioneering the concept of “island beds.” Those were freestanding flower beds set in lawn, designed to be viewed from all sides and to create a sculptural, dynamic effect in the garden landscape. Over the course of his career, he bred more than 170 new perennial cultivars, including several heucheras. Royal Ruby is a hybrid of H. sanguinea × H. × brizoides, forming compact, usually evergreen clumps about 25–30 cm tall with striking ruby red foliage that is most intense in spring. From late spring to early summer, it produces tiny rose-red flowers on slender stems reaching 40–50 cm in height. Its foliage colour is exquisite and beautifully complements perennial borders – either as a red accent in a tone-on-tone composition or as a vivid contrast to differently coloured leaves or blooms.

Coral bells are hardy and mostly evergreen perennials, mainly used as ground covers, however, they are excellent companions to plants with other textures, especially when mass planted. They prefer lightly shaded locations and evenly moist, nutrient-rich soil—soil pH does not matter. With occasional watering, they can tolerate full sun, except for light-colored varieties, unless specifically bred for sun exposure. They can even grow in shade, though their colors will be less vivid. In early spring, simply trim all leaves, allowing fresh new foliage to emerge. Fertilization is not required but significantly enhances their appearance and vigour. They are hardy to approximately -34 °C (USDA zone 4) and can be grown in outdoor containers as well.

Last update 22-08-2025

MOOODZ® JEALOUSY is a compact coneflower with large, 8-10 cm across, unusual blooms blending apple green ray florets with a prominent golden, domed centre. The petals have elegantly rounded, almost spoon-shaped tips; they are lighter near the centre, darkening toward the edges. Plants grow to about half a meter tall, bloom from early summer, and attract bees, bumblebees, butterflies, and hummingbird moths. Thanks to its unusual colouring, it looks both exotic and modern – perfect for stylish planters in hypermodern, minimalist designs. It also plays its part beautifully in a mixed perennial border, nestled among plants whose colours complement it. The leaves are deciduous, broadly lance-shaped, dark green, and rise upward along the stems. The variety was launched at the FlowerTrials exhibition in the Netherlands in 2021.

Coneflowers are beautiful, low-maintenance perennials that bloom from the first half of summer until autumn. The central discs hide nectar eagerly sought by butterflies and bumblebees. Regular deadheading, along with occasional feeding with liquid fertilizers, will extend the flowering season. Their stems are very sturdy, withstanding heavy rain and wind. They will grow in almost any well-drained, non-waterlogged soil in full sun, but dislike overly acidic conditions. Although native to the prairies, experience shows that hybrid types in particular dislike prolonged drought and appreciate extra watering during the driest parts of the year. In spring, watch out for slug invasions, which can consume much of the fresh growth – offering them beer traps is a great and effective way to lure them to a boozy demise while protecting your plants. Hardy to at least -29 °C (USDA zone 5), possibly lower, and requiring no winter protection.

Last update 20-08-2025

Double Scoop™ is an American breeding series of double-flowered coneflowers from the program of PanAmerican Seed (Illinois, USA), created by plant breeder Jianping Ren, originally from China. Cultivars in this series are characterized by large, richly coloured blooms with a distinctive pompon-like central cone surrounded by a ring of ray florets, giving them an exceptionally lush and decorative appearance. Plants are compact, sturdy, and well-branched, with a long flowering season from early summer through to autumn.

DOUBLE SCOOP™ CRANBERRY is a double-flowered coneflower from the American Double Scoop™ series, which features cultivars with exuberant blooms reminiscent of a winter beanie 😊. At first, the flowers are flat and appear single, but soon they begin to rise and form a dense, tightly packed bloom with a prominent pompon-like centre encircled by miniature ray florets — a true “bobble” on an imaginary hat. The flower colour starts coral-orange and matures to a rich cranberry pink. Plants reach 50–60 cm in height, are compact, well-branched, and sturdy, bred for lasting performance in both garden beds and containers. They excel in colour stability, high ornamental value, and attractiveness to pollinators. Introduced to the market in 2014, this cultivar is protected by U.S. Plant Patent PP24,769 and European Plant Breeders’ Rights EU PBR 37709.

Coneflowers are beautiful, low-maintenance perennials that bloom from the first half of summer until autumn. The central discs hide nectar eagerly sought by butterflies and bumblebees. Regular deadheading, along with occasional feeding with liquid fertilizers, will extend the flowering season. Their stems are very sturdy, withstanding heavy rain and wind. They will grow in almost any well-drained, non-waterlogged soil in full sun, but dislike overly acidic conditions. Although native to the prairies, experience shows that hybrid types in particular dislike prolonged drought and appreciate extra watering during the driest parts of the year. In spring, watch out for slug invasions, which can consume much of the fresh growth – offering them beer traps is a great and effective way to lure them to a boozy demise while protecting your plants. Hardy to at least -34 °C (USDA zone 4) and requiring no winter protection.

Last update 20-08-2025

If you have known hardy hibiscus for many years and think nothing could surprise you, lo and behold — before you stands this beauty. The special Walberton’s® Lunar® series looks as if it had slipped out of a tropical glasshouse into an ordinary European garden — and yet, for all its exotic air, it is reliably hardy to our Central European climate and winters. It was created as a bold interspecific cross between Hibiscus syriacus and Hibiscus paramutabilis, combining vigour and toughness with elegance, large blooms, and colours that seem almost unreal. Behind this discovery stands David Tristram, a respected British breeder who began his ambitious programme of targeted hybridisation back in the 1980s. He is also the founder of Walberton Nursery (1973), a nursery renowned for its innovations and botanical curiosities. In our region, their double-flowered azaleas are especially well known. New varieties are bred by Eva Erhart.

WALBERTON’S® LUNAR® RHAPSODY is an extravagant hybrid hardy hibiscus with extra-large flower 15-16 cm across. They are rich magenta with a small ruby red eye and a few dwarf sepals in the centre, casually layered around a less conspicuous, pale cream column of styles and stamens – typical of the mallow family (such as malva or hollyhock) – adds a dramatic focal point to the bloom. Growth is moderate (20–30 cm annually), reaching around 2 m in height, and occasionally more under exceptionally good conditions. The shrub has a somewhat open, “untidy” habit – an easy flaw to forgive given the splendour of its flowers. The variety is protected by US plant patent No. PP36,541 from 2025.

It has very decorative leaves that are unique. They are shallowly lobed, palmate, mid to dark green and coarsely toothed. If they turn yellow in summer the plant manifests too much water at the roots. They are either overwatered or planted in too heavy soil where it has not established yet. 

Pruning is an issue that always gets me started here. Hard pruning leads to larger flowers, that's true, but also production of long, immature, flexible twigs. The only cut I recommend is such that rejuvenates old plans – prune it hard in early spring by 50-75 % and let it grow for another 10 years or so. Rose-of-Sharon is quite adaptable of soil type. It can take drought but does not look good if dry for too long. It loves moisture fully established plants thrive on occasional flooding in summer, but you cannot transplant it into standing water. Old plants dislike peat. Selective fertilizers enhancing flowering are convenient but not crucial. Place it in full sun only. Fully hardy to min. -25 °C (USDA zone 6) and not suitable for pots.

Last update 19-08-2025

If you have known hardy hibiscus for many years and think nothing could surprise you, lo and behold — before you stands this beauty. The special Walberton’s® Lunar® series looks as if it had slipped out of a tropical glasshouse into an ordinary European garden — and yet, for all its exotic air, it is reliably hardy to our Central European climate and winters. It was created as a bold interspecific cross between Hibiscus syriacus and Hibiscus paramutabilis, combining vigour and toughness with elegance, large blooms, and colours that seem almost unreal. Behind this discovery stands David Tristram, a respected British breeder who began his ambitious programme of targeted hybridisation back in the 1980s. He is also the founder of Walberton Nursery (1973), a nursery renowned for its innovations and botanical curiosities. In our region, their double-flowered azaleas are especially well known. New varieties are bred by Eva Erhart.

WALBERTON’S® LUNAR® FLARE is a hybrid hardy hibiscus with a flower of tropical allure measuring around 15 cm across. The flowers are snowy white with brilliant ruby red rays radiating from the center towards the edges of the petals. A less conspicuous, pale cream column of styles and stamens – typical of the mallow family (such as malva or hollyhock) – adds a dramatic focal point to the bloom. Growth is moderate (20–30 cm annually), reaching around 2 m in height, and occasionally more under exceptionally good conditions. The shrub has a somewhat open, “untidy” habit – an easy flaw to forgive given the splendour of its flowers. The variety is protected by US plant patent No. PP36,438 from 2025.

It has very decorative leaves that are unique. They are shallowly lobed, palmate, mid to dark green and coarsely toothed. If they turn yellow in summer the plant manifests too much water at the roots. They are either over-watered or planted in too heavy soil where it has not established yet. 

Pruning is an issue that always gets me started here. Hard pruning leads to larger flowers, that's true, but also production of long, immature, flexible twigs. The only cut I recommend is such that rejuvenates old plans – prune it hard in early spring by 50-75 % and let it grow for another 10 years or so. Rose-of-Sharon is quite adaptable of soil type. It can take drought but does not look good if dry for too long. It loves moisture fully established plants thrive on occasional flooding in summer, but you cannot transplant it into standing water. Old plants dislike peat. Selective fertilizers enhancing flowering are convenient but not crucial. Place it in full sun only. Fully hardy to min. -25 °C (USDA zone 6) and not suitable for pots.

Last update 19-08-2025

If you have known Rose-of-Sharon for many years and think nothing could surprise you, lo and behold — before you stands this beauty. The special Walberton’s® Lunar® series looks as if it had slipped out of a tropical glasshouse into an ordinary European garden — and yet, for all its exotic air, it is reliably hardy to our Central European climate and winters. It was created as a daring interspecific cross between Hibiscus syriacus and Hibiscus paramutabilis, combining vigour and toughness with elegance, large blooms, and colours that seem almost unreal. Behind this discovery stands David Tristram, a respected British breeder who began his ambitious programme of targeted hybridisation back in the 1980s. He is also the founder of Walberton Nursery (1973), a nursery renowned for its innovations and botanical curiosities. In our region, their double-flowered azaleas are especially well known.

WALBERTON’S® LUNAR® ECLIPSE is a hybrid hardy hibiscus with a flower of tropical allure measuring around 15 cm across. Deep magenta petals are marked with a dark ruby red eye that bleeds into two-thirds of their length. A prominent, pale cream column of styles and stamens – typical of the mallow family (such as malva or hollyhock) – adds a dramatic focal point to the bloom, reminiscent of a drawn rapier. Growth is moderate (20–30 cm annually), reaching around 2 m in height, and occasionally more under exceptionally good conditions. The shrub has a somewhat open, “untidy” habit – an easy flaw to forgive given the splendour of its flowers. The variety is protected by US plant patent No. PP36,618 from 2025.

It has very decorative leaves that are unique. They are shallowly lobed, palmate, mid to dark green and coarsely toothed. If they turn yellow in summer the plant manifests too much water at the roots. They are either over-watered or planted in too heavy soil where it has not established yet. 

Pruning is an issue that always gets me started here. Hard pruning leads to larger flowers, that's true, but also production of long, immature, flexible twigs. The only cut I recommend is such that rejuvenates old plans – prune it hard in early spring by 50-75 % and let it grow for another 10 years or so. Rose-of-Sharon is quite adaptable of soil type. It can take drought but does not look good if dry for too long. It loves moisture fully established plants thrive on occasional flooding in summer, but you cannot transplant it into standing water. Old plants dislike peat. Selective fertilizers enhancing flowering are convenient but not crucial. Place it in full sun only. Fully hardy to min. -25 °C (USDA zone 6) and not suitable for pots.

Last update 13-08-2025

Queen Victoria is a statuesque cultivar of cardinal flower that has long graced temperate-climate gardens. From mid-summer to early autumn, it produces tall, terminal flower spikes packed with large, vivid scarlet, tubular, two-lipped blooms that blaze against its dark foliage. Each sturdy, maroon-tinged stem bears clusters of flowers so closely spaced they resemble glowing red torches. Plants typically reach heights of 90–120 cm and are at their best in compact groups, where their upright form and saturated colouring create a dramatic vertical accent. The name pays tribute to Britain’s Queen Victoria, renowned for her passion for horticulture and her lasting influence as a symbol of Victorian elegance—a reference perhaps to the cultivar’s dignified, commanding presence.

Before flowering, Queen Victoria forms a low basal rosette of lance-shaped to ovate leaves, rich in beetroot tones ranging from deep purplish-red to bronze-brown, with a glossy surface and gently undulating margins. As flower stems elongate, the foliage on them becomes slenderer and longer, often shifting to deep green with a purplish sheen in shaded parts, while maintaining its wine-red coloration in full sun. The plant forms a compact, dense clump around 30–60 cm wide, sending up several parallel vertical stems that retain their architectural form even in full bloom, lending clarity and sculptural structure to planting schemes. Removing spent stems will encourage a second flush of shorter stems with flowers.

This lobelia thrives in consistently moist conditions and—despite contrary claims from some growers—can tolerate lightly waterlogged soils, often performing better in them. Trials revealed that winter losses were caused not by frost but by drought. Plants in clay-rich, damp, or saturated beds retained healthy foliage throughout winter and emerged in spring to produce clumps twice as large as the previous year. Grow in full sun or light partial shade; the latter may reduce plant longevity. It prefers fertile soil of any pH and benefits from periodic applications of organic fertilizer during the flowering season. The plant contains toxic compounds and exudes a milky sap when cut, which may cause skin irritation in sensitive individuals. Slug attacks must be controlled as they are particularly fond of its stems and can cause extensive damage to the outer tissues right up to the flowering tips. This variety requires shelter from strong winds and is reliably hardy down to approximately –20 °C (USDA zone 6b), provided it does not dry out over winter.

Last update 10-08-2025

Liriodendron Snowbird® is a remarkable cultivar of this attractive tree, with origins linked to New Zealand. According to some sources, it was bred by James Palmer Rumbal, a long-time researcher at the renowned Duncan & Davies nursery, who specialized in selecting and propagating ornamental woody plants. For his contributions, Rumbal received the RNZIH Plant Raisers’ Award in 2012. Another account credits Elliot Groves of Stepping Stones Nursery in New Plymouth with selecting the cultivar, as noted in personal correspondence with dendrologist Neil Dunn in 2018. Whichever version holds true, Snowbird® began its slow but steady journey into the wider world in the early 21st century. In Europe, it first appeared in the catalogue of the British nursery Frank P. Matthews around 2010. That same year, it was introduced as a novelty by the aptly named Nothing Normal Nursery in the United States — and they’ve got a point: why sell boring plants? 😊

What makes Snowbird® so special? It’s a variegated cultivar whose snow-white margins stay bright throughout summer, unlike the older Aureomarginatum variety, which tends to fade with the first hot days of summer. The leaves glow beautifully on the tree until autumn, when they turn a rich buttery yellow before falling. They’re fairly large (15–20 cm long, 10–15 cm wide), saddle-shaped, and resemble a lyre. The tree has an upright growth habit with a pyramidal crown and reaches up to 20 meters in height and about 12 meters in width at full maturity (around 100 years). Older specimens produce tulip-shaped flowers in pale green with yellow to orange bases, blooming from late May to late June. Thanks to its narrower form, it’s suitable even for medium-sized gardens, where it stands out as a stunning specimen tree.

Pruning is generally unnecessary, as the tree naturally forms a dense, pyramidal shape with a handsome silhouette. However, if you need to reduce its size or shape it, always prune right after flowering — as a member of the magnolia family, it blooms at the tips of its branches, and spring pruning would remove the buds. You can grow it as a shrub with branches from the base, or as a single-trunk tree with a canopy above head height.

Plant your tulip tree in a sunny, open location with plenty of space. It tolerates windy sites if moisture is sufficient. It thrives best in rich, well-drained soil, ideally slightly acidic — adding peat can help. The soil should be moist but not waterlogged, although once established, the tree can handle short-term flooding after heavy rains. In its native habitat, it grows in a mild, humid climate with high humidity, which is hard to imitate in dry, continental climate of Central Europe. If you can’t plant it near water, ensure occasional watering, especially during summer heat and drought. Young single-trunk trees should be staked to help them root well and grow straight. Tulip trees are resistant to pests and diseases, and mature wood can withstand frosts down to –30 °C (USDA zone 5). The root system is shallow, wide-spreading, and actively seeks water. For this reason, avoid planting it too close to buildings, walls, or underground utilities — a minimum distance of 5 meters is recommended to prevent structural or pipe damage 

Last update 08-08-2025

Flat nectarines are a gourmet treat among peaches and standard nectarines. They feature a flattened shape, smooth glossy skin that’s thin—meaning they can’t be stored long once ripe—and exceptionally sweet, juicy flesh. When fully ripe, the flavour evokes ripe mangoes. The pulp is very soft, either yellow or white, and clings tightly to the small pit. They typically ripen throughout August depending on the variety.

Cultivar names are often fictional and multilingual, which is why we prefer English descriptors based on fruit characteristics to distinguish individual trees more clearly: White Flesh (with white pulp) and Yellow Flesh (with yellow pulp).

They are so easy to grow, and we have noticed that they are healthier and more vigorous than classic peach trees. They show great resistance to leaf curl unless in a peach orchard with this infection. Should it appear on your tree try to stay away from a chemical treatment and feed the plant. It will help it make new leaves and ill, curled leaves will fall off (remove and burn them). We suggest planting peach trees in open spaces so they can feel cold, spring breeze which will delay flowering and prevent the flowers from frost damage should they open too early. They like slightly alkaline soil, moist but well-drained. Do not transplant bare-root trees in autumn, only in spring. We do not recommend pruning but it may be done after flowering. The best yield is always from an unpruned tree which grows naturally. Hardy to about -29 °C (USDA zone 5). 

Last update 02-12-2021; 02-08-2025

Apple Blossom yarrow, a literal translation of the original and preferred German name ‘Apfelblüte’, is a variety created by German breeder A. Kikillus. It features soft pink flowers in almost flat terminal corymbs made up of delicate flower heads. Flowering begins in June and continues through September if entire stems with spent blooms are regularly cut back to ground level. The foliage is fine, bright green, bipinnately to tripinnately divided, deciduous, and adds a fluffy texture to the plant. Mature specimens reach about 70 cm in height when in bloom.

Yarrow is a perennial suitable for standard garden beds, dry spots, and rockeries. With its summer bloom time, it’s ideal for planting schemes designed to peak during the holidays. You can pair it tone-on-tone with other similarly coloured perennials or use it as a contrasting accent among shrubs. It's helpful to remove spent stems as soon as the flowers begin to fade — the plant will keep producing new, shorter stems and flowers through autumn. For combinations, you can take the traditional meadow route, pairing it with daisies, bellflowers, or campions, or go modern with bold hues supported by drought-tolerant companions such as:

- Echinacea - Sunseekers series (e.g. Mineola, Coral, Hot Pink) 
- Buddleja - Butterfly Candy series (Cerise, Ruby, Purple)  
- Compact verbenas (V. canadensis, V. bonariensis Lollipop)  
- Smaller rudbeckias

Yarrow is low-maintenance and thrives best in full sun and well-drained, rather poor soil. It cannot tolerate prolonged waterlogging, making it well-suited to gravel beds or dry slopes. Fertilizing is usually not necessary, but cutting back after flowering and light feeding will encourage another flush of blooms without exhausting the plant. To maintain vitality and compact growth, older clumps should be divided every 3–5 years, ideally in spring or autumn — this rejuvenates the plant and prevents dieback in the centre. Yarrow copes well with weather fluctuations, is drought-tolerant, and fully hardy down to –40 °C (USDA zone 3).

Last update 02-08-2025

BUTTERFLY CANDY™ LITTLE CERISE is a dwarf and compact buddleja introduced in 2024, producing vibrant purple-pink flowers — though let’s be honest, they’re quite a stretch from the warm, cherry-red shade that “cerise” was ever meant to represent. The inflorescence is conical, slim, only some 6-8 cm long, and composed of small, funnel-shaped flowers. They are moderately, sweetly fragrant and bloom from late June until late September. Deciduous leaves are lanceolate, hairy as they emerge, medium green and partly glossy above and silver on the reverse, without a significant autumn colour change. The plant makes an upright, very dense and bushy shrub. Deadheading is important to promote continuous flowering. This variety was awarded Bronze Medal at Plantarium Trade Fair in 2024 for unique colour and great habit.

We recommend rejuvenating buddleja every spring with strong pruning. The ideal time is late March to April, when the buds begin to swell but the risk of severe frost has passed. Up to 80% of last year's branches can be removed, keeping a basic framework approximately 30 cm above ground for dwarf varieties and up to 50 cm for standard cultivars. Properly pruned, the plant reliably regenerates and will bloom profusely throughout the season. Prolonged and abundant flowering can be supported by regular removal of spent flower spikes (deadheading) to prevent seed formation, followed by application of liquid fertilizer, though this is not essential.

Buddleja performs best in full sun, planted in moderately fertile, well-drained, and porous soil as excess moisture, especially during winter, may cause root rot or dieback. The plant is hardy to about –29 °C (USDA zone 5), though it typically thrives more vigorously in warmer areas. In colder regions, it is advisable to plant only well-established, older specimens with mature wood. Watering should be light rather than copious – buddleja is drought tolerant, but during growth and when in full bloom, light watering can enhance vitality and improve its ornamental appearance.

Last update 30-07-2025

DELGENIUS GLITZY larkspur stands out with its compact, almost shrubby habit, strong stems that require no staking, and lush inflorescences composed of semi-double flowers in shades of inky blue to bluish-purple, featuring a uniquely bicoloured white-and-black “bee” at the centre. Deciduous leaves are dark green, matte, palmately divided and distinctly incised. Flowering stems are 40-60 cm tall and the flowers open from the bottom upwards. The main blooming season starts in June and continues until early July. Then the plant spontaneously but scarcely reblooms until late summer, or you can cut it back to the ground after the main blooming phase and let it regrow, which will lead to a second, relatively strong flush of flowers in September and October. It is so beautiful to have a fresh new clump with vibrant flowers late in the season when other perennials have lost their charm and energy. Plant patent No. PP32993 was granted in 2021.

Grow larkspur in any moist but well-drained, humus-rich garden soil in full sun. It will benefit from mulching as it likes constant moisture. The plant contains toxin which may cause severe discomfort if ingested, or, to some, it may irritate skin. The plant belongs among medium-lived with a life span of 4-6 years, unless you dig out the clumps in the spring, divide them and plant back only the young and healthy ones, disposing of exhausted and old mother plant’s roots. Use a high phosphorus fertilizer every year for profuse flowering. Fully hardy to min. -34°C (USDA zone 4), possibly more. 

Last update 28-07-2025

Husker Red is a beardtongue cultivar emerged as the result of targeted selection within a breeding programme at the University of Nebraska. Its creator, Dr. Dale Lindgren, originally a mathematician, later became a respected horticultural expert. In 1983, he discovered among P. digitalis seedlings an individual with distinctly dark purple foliage and, after eight years of selection, he introduced it to the market named Husker Red. The cultivar name pays tribute to the university’s sports team, the Cornhuskers, whose colours are reflected in the foliage’s burgundy hue.

Husker Red immediately captivates with its deep burgundy foliage, especially evident in young plants. It grows upright, reaching 80–120 cm in height, and as it grows taller, the burgundy colour travels upward – fading from lower leaves which turn to dark green and intensifying on higher ones, creating a perfect contrast with the pale flowers. These are nearly white with light purple calyces and vivid purple veins in the floral throat. The veining resembles runway guiding lines that help planes land precisely – similarly, these veins guide pollinators safely to their destination: nectar 😊. It blooms from late May to July, after which it should be cut back just above the ground, and within two weeks it will produce fresh, beautifully dark burgundy leaves that will adorn the garden until winter. In 1996, Husker Red was named Perennial Plant of the Year by the American Perennial Plant Association.

These beardtongues are notably drought-resistant, aligning with modern and ecological gardening practices – requiring little to no watering. They’re used in compositions with other drought-tolerant species in full sun, offering medium height and dark color accents. However, they can be somewhat short-lived without care, and seed propagation is unreliable. Therefore, occasional fertilization and some watering during prolonged drought are recommended. Plant them in full sun or light partial shade to prevent legginess, always in free-draining soil of any pH. They don’t suffer from pests or diseases and tolerate temperatures down to approximately –37 °C, even thriving in deep planters with excellent drainage (USDA zone 3).

Last update 27-07-2025

The SWEET SUMMER™ series now includes 14 stunning cultivars of garden phlox (as of 2025) in many colours and combinations. And which one always draws the most attention? It may surprise you – the pure white one. White as freshly fallen snow and as gorgeous as the most exquisite wedding gown. One such gown is worn by Lady Nevea, a mythical ruler from a high-mountain valley called Floriglacia, where snow-white flowers bloom. Her dress is made of white phlox petals that never wilt. Legend has it that wherever Lady Nevea sets her foot, white flowers bloom again – even after the first frost. So keep your eyes open in October – for you may catch a glimpse of her in the corner of your eye, a beautiful figure appearing only for a fleeting moment before vanishing into the hoary morning.

The SWEET SUMMER™ SNOW cultivar forms upright flower heads 15 to 25 cm tall and 10 to 15 cm wide, made up of pure white blossoms. Flowering begins in July and the first wave lasts at least a month. If you regularly deadhead and remove the entire finished inflorescence while feeding with liquid fertilizer, new clusters form from the lower stems and flowering can continue until September. The flowers offer a pleasant, softly sweet and spicy scent. The leaves are deciduous, broad-lanceolate, dark green, and like all cultivars in this series, highly resistant to powdery mildew and leaf spot — the most common phlox diseases. The stems are firm, reach 50 to 60 cm tall, and do not bend or break after rainfall. This variety was bred by Ellen van Sambeek from the Dutch company Ditoplant and is protected by European PBR No. 36940 from 2014.

Phlox is an extremely hardy perennial. It sprouts very early in spring with deep wine-red buds often visible right after the snow melts. It blooms from early summer until the end of August, and early autumn flowering can be encouraged by trimming back spent clusters after the main flush. It’s easy to grow, thrives in regular garden soil, and appreciates nutrients — though even without fertilizer, it will bloom profusely. If it does suffer from disease, it’s usually caused by extremes — too dry or overly wet roots. This perennial is long-lived and will stay in your garden until you decide to dig it up. It’s ideal for sunny borders but will also bloom in partial shade. Hardy down to about –34 °C (USDA zone 4).

Last update 26-07-2025

Are you drawn to bold garden structure? They’re called “architectural features” for a reason. 😊 Night Embers stonecrop demands attention even from a distance – it stands like a dark sculpture among pastel-toned perennials. Its undeniable focal point is the foliage: plum-purple to almost black, fleshy, ovate to rounded leaves with striking metallic sheen – neither glossy nor matte. They grow along fleshy stems reaching 50–60 cm tall, topped by rounded clusters of small, star-shaped flowers that appear in late summer. They are dusty pink to light mauve which makes a stunning contrast against dark backgrounds, like flames glowing in twilight.

The plant grows upright, forming a narrow vase-shaped clump about 50–60 cm wide when mature and maintains a tidy form without flopping. The foliage is highly resistant to powdery mildew, so spraying is rarely necessary. Its nectar-rich flowers attract bees and provide vital forage at the start of autumn. They bloom for roughly six weeks before the flower heads begin to dry. If you don’t mind their faded look and the stems remain firm, leave them on the plant—they decorate autumn beds beautifully when covered in hoar.

This cultivar was bred by American perennial guru Hans A. Hansen from Walters Gardens in Michigan and is protected under patent no. PP29211 from 2018. Night Embers loves full sun, where its colours shine brightest, and thrives with minimal watering, making it an excellent partner for drought-loving plants. For maximum effect, use bold contrast – think silver foliage like Santolina, Helichrysum or Artemisia. Garden classics such as brightly coloured Echinacea or compact rockery friends like Delosperma, Dianthus, or low-growing Gypsophila are great matches. You can also play with texture by adding smaller drought-tolerant grasses like steel-blue, beige, or fresh green Festuca.

It needs very well-drained soil and doesn’t tolerate excess moisture – heavy soil or constantly wet spots may cause root and stem rot. Beyond that, care is minimal: no fertilizing, pruning, or winter protection required. In spring, remove old stems by cutting them close to the ground and allow fresh growth to emerge from below. Don't snap the stems off—use pruning shears to avoid damaging new buds forming at the base, often already present from the previous autumn. Watch out for slugs and act promptly if they appear. Night Embers is hardy down to approx. –40 °C (USDA zone 3).

Last update 25-07-2025

The Mauvette hydrangea was introduced shortly after Limetta’s success in 2018 as another member of the BellaRagazza® series of strong and vividly colored smooth hydrangeas. Its name is inspired by the rich pinkish-purple shade of the flowers, which varies depending on light and blooming stage. The inflorescences are semi-spherical (almost mop-head) and strikingly large, typically measuring 14–16 cm in diameter. This variety stands out not only aesthetically but also technically: it has very sturdy stems, 70-90 cm tall, which hold the flowers even after heavy rain and additionally blooms for a long time, from early summer through autumn. If pruned hard immediately after flowering, it will flower again in late summer. The deciduous leaves are ovate, medium to dark green (depending on soil quality), rather matte. Smooth hydrangea is a fast grower. 

Thanks to its beauty as well as its low maintenance and versatile use, it quickly wins the hearts of growers and gardeners worldwide. You can plant it almost anywhere except for deep shade. It will look great as a small specimen shrub or nicely incorporated among taller shrubs or conifers, enriching them with flower colour and long blooming time. It also looks great in perennial beds with taller species such as blue or white delphinium, yellow ligularia, warmly coloured helenium, purple joe-pye weed, or swamp hibiscus. As it prefers moist conditions, you can plant smaller to medium-tall perennials with similar needs in the foreground, such as lobelia, bellflowers (campanula), daisies (leucanthemum), and definitely variously colored daylilies (hemerocallis), which offer a relaxed structure thanks to their arching foliage.

You can grow it in almost any well-drained and moist soil, preferably fertile, although fertilizing is not necessary. In hot months and dry soil, it will appreciate extra watering. It tolerates any cardinal direction and soil pH. Annual spring pruning — about two-thirds the length of last season’s branches — ensures compact, strong plants with large flowers for the upcoming season. It is fully hardy to at least -40 °C (USDA zone 3) and also grows well in containers, where regular watering is required.

Last update 24-07-2025

SUNSEEKERS CLEMENTINE coneflower brings a vividly vibrant orange hue to garden beds – a shade reminiscent of ripe mandarins. Its flowers are exceptionally large: 9-11 cm across, with richly coloured petals that, as the bloom matures, develop a noticeable purplish tint around the centre, eventually flushing through the entire ray floret before fading. The central discs are domed, orange-brown, and offer plentiful nectar for butterflies, bumblebees, and honeybees. Each bloom lasts about 2–3 weeks. The plant itself grows to around 50 cm, with sturdy stems and a compact habit that lends a polished, modern appearance even within dynamic planting schemes. Leaves are healthy, deep green, slightly rough in texture, and lanceolate in shape. The cultivar was bred by Glenn Spil and introduced in 2023.

Coneflowers of this type are so structurally strong and well-formed that they can easily complement smaller shrubs or robust (semi)woody perennials like hybrid hypericums, which offer colorful fruits from midsummer onwards. They look stunning alongside airy indigo bushes or the finely textured Mexican orange blossom. I’ve even seen them used by fans of dwarf conifers, who previously brushed away any ideas of perennials – and suddenly, here’s a jewel of colour and soft foliage among their beloved needles, and it works beautifully!

After flowering, simply deadhead spent flowers or cut back the top of the stem to the first or second leaf. Leave the stem grow as new buds emerge along it and continue flowering tirelessly until summer’s end. To encourage budding, regular feeding with a flowering plant fertilizer every two weeks is ideal. Watch out for slugs in early spring: they may damage new growth, which appears later than other perennials – just when these uninvited guests are at full destructive strength.

Echinacea will thrive in almost any well-drained soil in full sun. It’s a prairie plant that loves heat and sun, doesn’t wait for rain, and copes well with dry spells. However, in the first year make sure to water it carefully until established, and especially before the first winter and don’t let it dry out completely. Ideal for en masse plantings, or as a lively accent among low shrubs, and it also looks excellent in dense container plantings, where its flower colour truly shines. Mulching with fine bark or decorative gravel adds compositional clarity. Hardy to about -34 °C. (USDA zone 4).

Last update 22-07-2025

Purple Rain is a little taller cultivar of Chinese false spiraea, growing to around 60 cm with a compact, upright habit. Its slender, conical flower plumes appear in summer in a vivid, unmistakable shade of magenta-purple, rising above dark green, glossy leaves with delicately serrated margins. The cultivar was bred in the Netherlands by Hans van der Meer, who selected it for its abundant flowering, structural stability, ornamental foliage, and sun tolerance.

Try pairing it in a moist garden bed alongside large-leaved hostas, variegated heucheras, and dark-leaved ligularias, whose robust foliage offers a striking contrast to astilbe’s finely textured leaves. To extend the bed’s seasonal interest, add spring-blooming perennials such as brunneras and pulmonarias. They attract attention early in the season and then gracefully yield the spotlight to Astilbe in midsummer while continuing to enrich the planting with their lower stature and contrasting foliage. Purple Rain is protected by U.S. Plant Patent PP21877 granted in 2011.

If the plant blooms profusely in its first flush and is growing in nutrient-mediocre or even poor soil, the foliage may appear exhausted after flowering. In that case, it's worth cutting the plant back to the ground, feeding with a liquid fertilizer, which will encourage it to regrow; the fresh foliage will remain decorative until the end of the season. Regular feeding also promotes reblooming throughout the summer holidays.

In their natural habitat, astilbes thrive in mountain ravines and damp forests, where they appreciate shade and moist soil. Thanks to their tolerance for both shade and moisture, they have become popular perennials for planting around ponds and in woodland gardens. They are not difficult to grow as long as they have proper conditions: rich, moisture-retentive soil and a preference for partial shade over full sun. However, given regular watering or a naturally damp site, they will also perform well in full sun. Good fertilization enhances both the size and quality of the blooms. Avoid overly alkaline soils and compacted clays that dry out in summer — they are not suitable. For optimal performance, divide and rejuvenate clumps every four years, removing old and dying rhizomes. Do this in early spring before new growth starts. Old foliage and flower stalks should also be cut back in early spring. Fully hardy to approximately –34 °C (USDA zone 4). Perfect for large planters, too.

Last update 21-07-2025