New assortment

When one mentions Elsrijk, most landscape architects think of a tree that “doesn’t stand out” and that is precisely what makes it exceptional. It is a field maple variety whose canopy is regular, narrowly oval to pyramidal, and keeps its shape without pruning, giving it a tidy appearance even without human intervention. Its leaves remain healthy even in conditions where other maples suffer from mildew, and the overall habit is compact and refined. It grows to about 8 meters in height, with a spread of 4–6 meters, and its smaller leaves stay fresh green until autumn, when they turn a warm yellow. These traits: shape stability, disease resistance, and balanced growth have made it a favourite among field maple cultivars. Compared to the species, ‘Elsrijk’ looks smoother and more cultivated – like the urban cousin of a rural tree. It was selected by the municipal nursery in Amstelveen (C.P. Broerse) in 1953 and named after the local district of Elsrijk. Since then, it has become a fixture of European greenery.

In gardens, ‘Elsrijk’ proves its worth wherever a tree with a clearly defined shape and zero maintenance is needed. Its compact canopy makes it suitable for lining driveways or as a specimen tree in small front yards where it provides shade without overwhelming the house. In parks it can form regular rows, but it works equally well as a contrasting element among free-growing shrubs. Its yellow autumn color stands out next to shrubs with maroon or red foliage (such as barberry or copper beech) or in combination with ornamental grasses that emphasize its firm outline. In smaller gardens it can serve as a “living architectural element” – a tree that divides space visually without weighing it down.

The field maple is tolerant of almost any soil type – from acidic to alkaline, wet to dry – and it copes with paving, road salt, polluted air, and turf growing over its roots. After planting, however, it must be staked to a strong support for at least three years until it establishes, and the trunk thickens. Do not allow grass  to grow above its roots during this period. Reports on its frost hardiness vary: most sources confirm reliability down to –30 °C, but growers in northern Europe attest that it can withstand even –40 °C (USDA zone 3).

Last update 09-10-2025

Banshee is a fantastic cultivar purple moor grass, deserving attention for its elegance and variability. It forms compact, fresh green clumps of narrow leaves, from which slender, upright stems emerge from June through autumn, topped with abundant, airy panicles of flowers. These begin in a deep purple hue, gradually shift to soft pink, and finally fade to light beige. In autumn, both stems and foliage turn golden-orange, allowing the plant to retain a striking silhouette even after flowering, adding structure to the garden throughout the winter months.

‘Banshee’ originated as a spontaneous mutation discovered by Tomasz and Katarzyna Grochowscy at their nursery, Szkółka Roślin Ozdobnych Katarzyna i Tomasz Grochowscy in Poland in 2016. It was introduced to the market in 2025 by Polish gardener Artur Maj in collaboration with Plantipp. That same year, it was awarded a gold medal at the prestigious international novelty fair Plantarium – a noteworthy achievement for an ornamental grass variety.

In the landscape, ‘Banshee’ serves as a delicate yet prominent vertical accent. It looks stunning in larger groups, where its shifting colors and gently swaying inflorescences bring movement and light to perennial beds. It pairs beautifully with flowering perennials such as Echinacea, tall Sedum, Aster, or even spring blooming meadow sage which provides mass and early blooms while ‘Banshee’ is still a baby. With a height of around one meter and a spread of up to 70 cm, it’s suitable even for smaller gardens, where it can act as an elegant specimen or part of a structured planting. In naturalistic designs, it can serve as a transition between perennials and looser vegetation. Thanks to its resistance to drought, wind, heat, and pollution, ‘Banshee’ is an ideal choice not only for natural gardens but also for urban settings or coastal plantings. Moreover, it is very low-maintenance and sterile – it does not self-seed.

Molinia is a slow-growing grass that takes time to get established in a new location. It is a moisture-loving species that can even handle moderate waterlogging in muddy soil and shallow ponds or lake margins, but it does not necessarily require so much water when cultivated in a garden. It prefers deep and more acidic soil that will not dry out completely, although once established it is very tolerant of short-term dry spells in summer. You can grow it in full sun or partial shade. In the spring, before new leaves emerge but after all frosts, cut it back 5-10 cm above the ground. It grows in compact clumps, does not weed around or gets invasive, and forms larger clumps very slowly – consider planting several plants into one nest. Hardy to min. -34 °C (USDA zone 4).

Last update: 07-10-2025

Alley Cat, a variety of Eastern redbud, is a gem, or perhaps even a work of art. Imagine a vibrant green coat worn by an eccentric painter who paints exclusively in white, while listening to the Toreador Song and Habanera from Carmen, splashing white paint all around in ecstasy, including on his own coat. That’s exactly what the leaves of this redbud look like. They are large (7 to 10 cm across), shaped like wide hearts, and each one is a unique creation. A key trait is the seasonal stability of its variegation, which doesn’t fade – an exceptional feature among variegated redbuds. Its final height varies depending on site and soil quality, typically around 4 meters tall and wide in average soil, but up to 6 meters in rich, fertile conditions. Its branches spread gracefully outward, giving it a slightly nonchalant appearance. In early spring, it blooms with small pink flowers directly on bare wood. The cultivar was discovered in 2016 by American plantsman Allen Bush of Jelitto Plants, as a spontaneous mutation of the species growing in an alley near his home in Louisville, Kentucky.

This ‘Alley Cat’ behaves a bit like a feline aristocrat whose spirit demands space and wants to be seen yet pretends not to care. It looks best against a backdrop of darker conifers or other solid-colored trees and taller shrubs. Ferns, liriope, or astilbes make excellent companion plants beneath its canopy. The variegated leaves are like a spotlight, brightening even darker corners. In modern gardens, it serves as a sculptural element; in naturalistic landscape, it becomes a surprising accent. It’s well suited to urban gardens and front yards, where its compact size doesn’t require vast space but still delivers a strong visual impact.

Eastern redbud is not particularly demanding when it comes to soil, it will thrive in ordinary garden soil as long as it’s well-drained. However, it performs best in slightly to strongly acidic soil with consistent moisture, though not in boggy conditions. During hot spells in June, we’ve observed occasional scorching of the youngest leaves on plants exposed to full sun without adequate watering. Fortunately, it has proven very resilient – damaged leaves were quickly replaced by new, healthy ones. Young plants benefit from protection against harsh spring sun, which can be surprisingly intense, and from drying winter winds, especially in exposed locations. It dislikes transplanting, this is a tree that settles into its spot and doesn’t appreciate being moved. It can be shaped by pruning while young; later, we recommend trimming only thin branches during dormancy, ideally in late winter before bud break. Its cold hardiness is excellent, commonly rated to -29 °C (USDA zone 5), with some sources suggesting it may survive down to -34 °C (zone 4a), though this remains untested. Container growing is not recommended as it needs space for its roots and a stable microclimate that pots cannot provide.

Last update 06-10-2025

The Japanese holly Dwarf Pagoda is among the most striking dwarf forms ever bred. It originated in the USA thanks to Dr. Elwin Orton at Rutgers University in 1972 and has since earned a reputation as a collectors’ gem. It grows extremely slowly, often only a few centimeters per year, forming a dense, compact shrub with tiny, almost round, dark green, glossy leaves resembling miniature coins. Its habit is naturally tiered – just like the silhouette of a pagoda, the traditional multi‑storied tower in East Asian architecture. This is a female cultivar that in mid‑spring produces abundant clusters of tiny, creamy flowers, providing valuable bee food. If pollinated by a nearby male plant, it bears small, shiny black fruits in autumn, which serve as winter food for birds. For humans they are not poisonous, but they do contain small amounts of saponins that may cause digestive discomfort if consumed in larger quantities.

‘Dwarf Pagoda’ is a rarer cultivar and, with its appearance, a true jewel, so it deserves to be treated as a small specimen. It naturally acts as a miniature architectural element, maintaining a regular shape even without pruning. It can be used in Japanese gardens, in small evergreen beds, in rockeries surrounded by gravel, or in elegant containers on terraces or at entrances, where it provides year‑round attraction. Thanks to its mature size of around 1.2 m after several decades, it takes up little space yet makes a strong impression. It is also well suited to bonsai containers, where its slow growth makes long‑term shaping easier.

Japanese holly is tolerant of most soil types except heavy clay, but it thrives best in well‑drained, evenly moist, acidic soil, occasionally enriched with slow‑release fertilizer. It has a strong root system that copes better with poorer conditions than English hollies and adapts easily to the limited root space of containers without showing signs of stress or drought. It is hardy to about −27 °C (USDA zone 5) and is also suitable for outdoor planters with good drainage and where it requires more frequent but careful watering, including during frost‑free winter days. 

Last update: 01-10-2025

Winter Lightning is a cultivar of box elder, valued above all for its striking yellow twigs in winter, which stand out against the gray trunks and bare branches of other dormant trees. It is a medium-sized, deciduous tree with pinnate leaves that emerge in spring a fresh yellow, soon after shifting to chartreuse, and in summer they turn green. In autumn they take on glowing tones of golden and amber orange. The leaves are usually composed of five leaflets with pink stalks, ovate to lanceolate, 5–10 cm long, with irregular serrations along the margins or just a few notches, occasionally even entire – yes, a bit of a rascal. Their texture is light and relaxed, which is in fact one of the main reasons for the popularity of the box elder as a species. The species itself is native to North America, where it grows along rivers and in lowlands from Canada to Mexico. It was introduced to Europe as early as the 17th century and is now known as a fast-growing, adaptable tree, often planted in parks and urban greenery. The species produces abundant viable seeds, often spreading where it is not wanted – I did mention it’s a rascal – but modern cultivars are trouble-free or sterile.

The cultivar ‘Winter Lightning’ is most likely a selection taken from the species after a colour mutation, but no precise record of its origin or registration exists. It is assumed to have come from American nurseries, which in the second half of the 20th century introduced a number of new maples, including the famous Princeton Nurseries in New Jersey. It first appeared in American nursery catalogues in the late 1980s, from where it spread to Europe in the 1990s and soon received the Award of Garden Merit from the Royal Horticultural Society (RHS). And that is crucial, because this award could ONLY have been given if it were a sterile male clone that poses no invasive risk, so this one is not such a rascal after all.

Winter Lightning usually grows to a height of 6–8 meters, with a canopy spread of 4–6 meters in a somewhat irregular globose or dome shape. Thanks to these proportions it is well suited to medium-sized gardens, where it has enough space to show off its winter effect. It looks best as a specimen tree or in a small group, always with sufficient spacing. It stands out especially against dark backgrounds such as an evergreen hedge or darker conifers, where its yellow branches literally shine in winter. Older trees develop strong trunks with attractive texture. It also works well in contrast with trees that display red tones in summer or autumn and have a different habit, creating both colour and structural harmony. Thanks to its medium size and undemanding nature, it is also suitable for urban gardens, where it brings light and color.

Box elder requires virtually no care. It is resistant to severe frost, wind, drought, and even temporary waterlogging. It is not prone to diseases and thrives on neglect. It loves full sun as well as partial shade and prefers deep, moist but well-drained soils, yet it tolerates dry spells and urban pollution. In the first three years after planting, the tree must be staked to a strong support to ensure proper anchoring and straight trunk growth. During this period, do not allow grass or other plants to grow above its roots. Its frost hardiness is excellent – it withstands temperatures down to about –45 °C (USDA zone 2).

Last update 05-10-2025

Lichtenthalii is a cultivar of European holly whose origins remain shrouded in mystery. You may come across it here and there in collectors’ gardens, occasionally in arboreta devoted to evergreen trees, but no one can tell you where it truly came from. Its name points to Lichtenthal near Baden‑Baden in Germany, yet nothing more is known. Perhaps, behind the walls of the local Cistercian monastery founded in the 13th century, secret botanical experiments once took place, however, their records were locked away in a private library. All we know is that it is no teenager, for at Wakehurst Place in Sussex, England, there already stands a large, venerable specimen. Or did this holly arise as a chance mutation in a monastic garden, from which some curious botanist once snatched a twig and began propagating it without the monks’ knowledge? Later, gnawed by conscience, did he at least name it after the monastery? Or perhaps… well, let us leave that veil of mystery unlifted. It is precisely this aura of secrecy that lends the plant its special charm – like the enigma of the Mona Lisa.

The holly ‘Lichtenthalii’ is rightly considered a collector’s gem, for it is fascinating and unlike any other. It bears evergreen, narrowly elongated leaves, typically slightly twisted, wavy, or curled, giving a more delicate impression than those of common hollies. They are leathery, very glossy, and firm to the touch. The margins are irregularly spiny in youth, becoming almost entire – perfectly smooth – with age. Their dark green surface contrasts with a lighter midrib that accentuates their shape. In spring, small white flowers appear, attracting pollinating insects. As a female cultivar, it may, in the presence of a male plant, produce red berries that ripen in autumn and persist into winter, though fruiting is not always regular. The berries are inedible to mildly toxic for humans, but a welcome winter feast for birds.

Overall, this is a slow‑growing, evergreen shrub or small tree with a dense, spreading to rounded habit. It is sometimes nicknamed the “hedgehog holly” depicting its unusual shape. At maturity it usually reaches about two to three meters in height and width. With its subtle foliage and compact growth, it makes a rare and striking specimen, especially suited to smaller gardens and collections. Any pruning is best carried out in early spring before new growth begins, but after the hardest frosts have passed.

Hollies should be grown in full sun or partial shade; they will tolerate shade but lose their form there. They require acidic to neutral, light and well‑drained, nutrient‑rich soil (especially fruiting cultivars), which remains moist but never waterlogged – they dislike prolonged drought. Clay in the upper soil layers is usually unsuitable, so it is better to plant make a raised bed for them in such case and backfill with a mixture of native soil and quality acidic substrate. By contrast, clay in deeper layers, once the roots reach it, is beneficial. In poorer soils, feeding is important, and the use of mycorrhizal fungi at planting is even more crucial. Before and during winter, whenever the ground is not frozen, watering is recommended. ‘Lichtenthalii’ is hardy to at least –24 °C and can withstand short spells a few degrees lower (USDA zone 6).

Last update 03-10-2025

When I first received a young plant of Euphorbia Galaxy Glow, I had no idea what Peter from Plantipp, the company representing this plant’s variety rights, wanted to surprise me with. But after just a couple of years of watching it grow, it took my breath away. It is SUCH a beautiful spurge that it has deservedly become the dominant feature of the entrance border in our display garden in Prague. Compact at first but eventually forming a substantial, densely branched shrub about a meter high and a bit more wide, it is unmistakable – its young shoots glow with a striking pink to purple hue. The evergreen leaves are narrow, elongated, softly hairy and therefore matte, holding a pastel olive‑green tone throughout the season.

The real fireworks arrive in late spring, when the shoot tips rise above the mound bearing large inflorescences. Their bracts begin a bright chartreuse, then turn bronze, later pink, and finally shift to shades of purple and smoky salmon. This spectacle lasts far longer than in most related varieties – stretching from May right through August. Meanwhile, the plant produces fresh new shoots with vibrant foliage, so you can easily cut away the spent stems and keep the whole clump neat and lively.

The variety originated as a chance seedling, discovered by American plantsman Pat McCracken in North Carolina. A passionate explorer, he has traveled through 19 countries in search of new and unusual plants to introduce into cultivation. Galaxy Glow is believed to be a hybrid between Euphorbia amygdaloides and Euphorbia dulcis – the latter being a native species in the Czech Republic, which explains the hybrid’s reliable hardiness through Central European winters. The plant is protected under EU Plant Breeders’ Rights No. 68088 (2024) and US Plant Patent PP28,761 (2018).

Euphorbia ‘Galaxy Glow’ offers such a flamboyant architecture that it is truly a challenge to find it neighbours worthy of its company. We have had success combining it with evergreen magnolia and dwarf cherry laurel in the background, complemented by taller phlox and swamp hibiscus. It is framed with smaller shrubs such as bluebeard or golden‑leaved choisya, while the very front belongs to hellebores, whose evergreen, dramatically different foliage provides just the right counterpoint to this already striking shrub.

Euphorbia amygdaloides and its hybrids are woody perennials typical of the warmer, though not arid, regions of the Caucasus and Turkey. They tolerate high summer temperatures but require more moisture than the drought‑adapted vegetation of southern European rocks and plains. This explains their great popularity in Great Britain, where the consistently high humidity allows spurges to thrive. In our continental conditions, Galaxy Glow does best in moderately moist but well‑drained soil of any pH. It should be kept lightly moist for the first few months, but beyond that they will rarely need more water than natural rainfall provides, especially if mulched. Feeding before flowering, and again at the end of summer is beneficial, though not essential. Galaxy Glow is hardy down to –25 °C and requires no winter protection. It is not suitable for outdoor planters, as it dislikes sudden fluctuations in temperature and moisture.

Last update: 01-10-2025

Swedish whitebeam is a handsome, medium-sized tree with attractive foliage and a dense canopy, narrowly pyramidal in youth and later broadening into a wide-ovate to oval shape. The deciduous leaves are broadly ovate and shallowly lobed, dark green and glossy above, densely white‑tomentose beneath, giving the crown a silvery sheen, especially when stirred by the wind – reminiscent of some poplars. In autumn they turn striking shades of yellow to orange. In May to June appear creamy white, small flowers, borne in dense corymbs 8–12 cm across, with a characteristic, slightly pungent scent. The fruits are orange‑red pomes, round to ovoid, 1–1.5 cm in size, ripening in late summer and often persisting on the tree into autumn. They are an important food source for birds, though too astringent to be of much use to people. The tree usually grows 10–15 m tall and 6–10 m wide, with a trunk that remains smooth and grey‑black for a long time, becoming finely fissured with age.

In garden and landscape design the Swedish whitebeam serves as a reliable specimen or avenue tree. It is well suited to city streets, parks, and shelterbelts, as it tolerates drought, wind, salinity, and polluted air. It is decorative throughout the year – in spring with its flowers, in summer with its foliage, and in autumn with its colourful leaves and fruit. It also fits well into private gardens, and thanks to its unpretentious appearance, far removed from exoticism, it is suitable for naturalistic gardens and parks.

For cultivation the Swedish whitebeam requires a sunny site and well‑drained, rather poor soil, but it is highly tolerant – coping even with loamy or clayey substrates provided they are not permanently waterlogged. It does not tolerate prolonged waterlogging, so in heavier soils planting should be combined with drainage or slight elevation. It thrives best in fresh, moist but well‑drained soils; once established, however, it is very drought‑resistant and requires no watering. The tree is extremely hardy, withstanding temperatures down to –34 °C (USDA zone 4), and shows excellent tolerance of urban conditions, including soil salinity caused by road salt. It does not require regular pruning, only formative pruning in youth and later the removal of dead or damaged branches. In standard tree form, staking is essential for the first 2–3 years after planting until the root system anchors the tree firmly. Thanks to its resistance to diseases, including fire blight, it is valued as a long‑lived and dependable tree for both public greenery and private gardens.

Last update 20-09-2025

Silver Butterfly is a river star cultivar, selected in South Africa in the 1990s (breeder: Malanseuns Pleasure Plants, Pretoria) and introduced into the European market shortly thereafter. It was chosen for its more intense silvery foliage and compact growth, making it suitable even for smaller gardens or containers. The leaves are narrow, linear to narrowly lanceolate, silvery‑grey to grey‑green, with a fine pubescence that creates the characteristic silvery effect. The overall habit is airy and light, yet dense enough to serve as a striking pale accent in a border. The plant typically reaches about 1 m in height and a similar spread.

The flowers are pure white, star‑shaped, and small, about 1–2 cm across, with a delicate creamy to pale yellow centre formed by the stamens. They are borne in loose, open racemes to panicles at the tips and upper parts of young shoots, so that in bloom the shrub appears veiled in a soft white haze above the silvery foliage, gently moving in the wind. Flowering begins in late spring and peaks in early summer (usually May to July) but continues reliably into early autumn if the plant receives sufficient sun. Spent panicles can be cut back just below the inflorescence; the plant then quickly produces new shoots with further flowers.

In garden design, the river star functions as a bright contrast element. It combines beautifully with dark‑leaved perennials such as colourful heucheras or black columbines, with lavenders, or with roses, to which it provides a delicate backdrop. In modern plantings it also works well alongside ornamental grasses, where its silvery tone enhances the movement and colour of surrounding plants. Thanks to its fine habit it is equally effective near water features, recalling its natural habitat. It can also serve as one of the highlights of so‑called “silver gardens,” beds composed of plants with silvery foliage such as artemisia, santolina, or helichrysum.

For cultivation it requires a sunny position and well‑drained, rather poor soil. Although in its native habitat it grows by water, in gardens of cooler climates where winters bring frost it does not tolerate prolonged waterlogging – it needs moisture but always with good drainage. Feeding is possible but not essential. In C.E. continental climate Gomphostigma virgatum behaves as a semi‑shrub: in mild winters part of the woody stems may survive and sprout again from their tips, but in harsher frosts the whole top growth can die back and the plant will re‑emerge from the base. The best approach in spring is to wait and see what is alive, then cut back to green tissue; if everything above ground has frozen, simply prune to the base, from where it reliably produces new shoots. The hardiness of Silver Butterfly was originally listed only to –15 °C, but horticultural practice in Europe confirms that well‑established plants can withstand down to –22 °C, provided they are in free‑draining soil and a sheltered site. In colder regions, winter protection or container culture with the option of moving the plant to a frost‑free space is advisable.

Last update 19-09-2025

Miss Elly lungwort belongs to this group of Pulmonaria × cultorum hybrids and first appeared on the market around 2008. It is characterized by a dense, compact, cushion‑forming habit and in early spring (April-May) opens tubular flowers in a deep, dark blue colour; this cultivar is not commonly reported to change to purple. Flowers are arranged in short clusters at the tips of fleshy stems about 20 cm high and attract mainly bumblebees and bees, which swarm to them like to an early spring feast. The first leaves are smaller and have only a few less conspicuous spots, but once flowering finishes the plant produces new, much larger leaves that in this case are broadly lanceolate, dark green and marked with numerous conspicuous silvery‑grey spots. At that stage it is best to remove the spent flower stems with small leaves in order to give the new large leaves space and energy; the new foliage is generally quite disease‑resistant. Height in flower does not exceed 30 cm and the spread is just a little over.

All lungworts – species and hybrids alike – are suitable both for modern and for naturalistic or cottage landscapes. Combine them with ferns, anemones, corydalis, geraniums or Siberian bugloss. In a contemporary garden they act as a subtle colour accent that appears earlier than most perennials, and their attractive leaves can decorate beds well into winter because they are partly evergreen. In a cottage planting they work excellently as an underplanting and, thanks to their early flowering, provide a valuable nectar source for pollinators at a time when available floral resources are still scarce.

Large‑leaved forms of lungwort require a fresh, well-drained but evenly moist soil that neither dries out nor remains permanently waterlogged to avoid fungal diseases. In the wild they naturally grow beneath trees that protect them from drying out, and in good soils with a mildly acidic to neutral reaction – they do not tolerate strongly calcareous loam. They prefer partial shade to full shade; in full sun their leaves can suffer scorch, except for varieties specifically rated as tolerant of sun. Although some leaves may remain attractive after winter, early in spring – before stems with flowers have burst into growth – it is advisable to remove all overwintered foliage. Lungwort is hardy down to about −34 °C (USDA zone 4) and is not ideal for containers, because it resents fluctuations between wet and dry. 

Last update 24-09-2025

SUNSPARKLER® LIME ZINGER stonecrop comes from the American breeding series Sunsparkler®, developed by renowned horticulturist Hans Hansen. This perennial guru is known for dozens of successful cultivars of echinaceas, heucheras, hostas, and other garden beauties. His work blends botanical precision with a keen eye for modern garden aesthetics. Lime Zinger is one of the most striking cultivars in the series: its leaves resemble miniature eucalyptus foliage – round, juicy, lime-green with a fine burgundy edge in youth, as if outlined with a pastel pencil. It blooms with small, star-shaped flowers in raspberry pink, densely covering the plant so it resembles a frothy berry mousse from late summer into autumn. It stays under 15 cm tall but quickly spreads up to 45 cm wide, forming a low, dense carpet that creeps across the ground like a garden blanket.

In the garden, SUNSPARKLER® LIME ZINGER works beautifully as a groundcover perennial, especially in sunny spots with well-drained soil. It pairs well with other low-growing succulents such as sempervivums, delospermas, or creeping thymes. It also shines alongside perennials with dark foliage like heucheras or Stachys, and contrasts elegantly with silvery leaves of Helichrysum, Senecio, or compact cultivars of Salvia. In modern gardens, it serves as a fresh color accent, while in naturalistic plantings it behaves as a quiet but reliable filler. Thanks to its late flowering, it provides a valuable nectar source for bees and butterflies at the end of the season. The cultivar is protected under EU Plant Variety Rights (EU40474, granted in 2015) and a US Plant Patent (USPP24632, granted in 2014).

It needs very well-drained soil and doesn’t tolerate excess moisture – heavy soil or constantly wet spots may cause root and stem rot. Beyond that, care is minimal: no fertilizing, pruning, or winter protection required. In spring, remove old stems by cutting them close to the ground and allow fresh growth to emerge from below. Don't snap the stems off – use pruning shears to avoid damaging new buds forming at the base, often already present from the previous autumn. Watch out for slugs and act promptly if they appear. It is hardy down to min. –34 °C (USDA zone 4) and suitable for well-drained planters.

Last update 23-09-2025

The hybrid azalea Carolina Salmon derives from the variegated cultivar Carolina, but here the difference is striking: Carolina Salmon is entirely single‑coloured. If just for a split second the word dull came up, think again, or even better – look again! The combination of rich salmon‑pink and relatively large blossoms is guaranteed to draw attention. The flowers are broadly open, generous in form, and when they appear in abundance, they resemble a festive cascade rather than scattered sparks. The shrub has a tiered structure, with branches arranged in layers that lend it natural elegance without heaviness. The evergreen leaves are leathery, deep green, and in winter on sheltered sites they take on bronze tones, so the plant remains decorative even outside its flowering season.

Carolina Salmon arose as the result of a so‑called reversion – a phenomenon in which a plant spontaneously alters a trait and “returns” to a simpler, more stable form. In azaleas this most often occurs in variegated or multi-coloured flowers, since such markings are genetically less stable. In the case of Carolina, part of the plant abandoned the white edging and suppressed the purple speckling, producing a flower of uniform colour. Such reversions appear irregularly – sometimes only on a single branch, sometimes developing into an entirely new cultivar. That is precisely how Carolina Salmon came into being: it retains all the horticultural qualities of the original Carolina, but offers a different, purer aesthetic impression.

In garden compositions, Carolina Salmon acts as a unifying element. Its solid salmon‑pink blossoms combine easily with plants that have striking foliage – whether the dark green of rhododendrons, the blue‑green of hostas, or the finely textured fronds of ferns. Since the flowers are not variegated, they do not clash with other flowering shrubs; instead they create a calm backdrop that allows contrasting colours to shine, such as the white of viburnums or the soft pink of magnolias. In partial shade beneath taller trees, the salmon hue glows even more intensely, lending the space a festive yet harmonious tone.

Evergreen azaleas require light, acidic, very well drained soil that is preferably kept constantly moist but never waterlogged, and rich in iron and phosphorus. Use special fertilizers for rhododendrons and azaleas, or more generally for ericaceous plants. To preserve soil moisture, it is best to keep them mulched at all times, ideally with bark or leaf mould, which also protects their shallow roots from overheating and drying out. An ideal planting mix is one third peat, one third well rotted leaf mould or non limed compost, and one third of the site’s own garden soil, preferably sieved. Azaleas form shallow, spreading root systems, so never plant them deeply and never in heavy, impermeable soil. The best location is partial shade or filtered sunlight beneath tall tree canopies; they can tolerate full sun only for part of the day if moisture is sufficient. Hardiness of Carolina Salmon has been tested down to –27 °C (USDA zone 5b), and the plant can also be grown year round in broad but not overly deep outdoor containers, provided they are insulated against frost. In containers, however, occasional watering is essential, as the substrate dries out faster than in the ground.

Last update 19-09-2025

One of the most aromatic and at the same time most spectacular sages is clary sage, which has become a symbol of sensuality and fragrance within the genus. Native to the Mediterranean and Southwest Asia, it thrives on dry, sunny slopes and rocky hillsides. It is impossible to overlook in the wild – the first year it forms a massive rosette of leaves, and in the second it sends up a tall flowering stem crowned with striking inflorescences: upright spikes of small white to pale violet flowers, surrounded by vividly colored pink‑purple bracts that create a dramatic stage‑like effect – making it a true queen of its habitat. The plant resembles the silhouette of an ancient fountain: solid at the base, airy at the top, and fragrant throughout – flowers, leaves, and stems exude an intense musky‑spicy aroma. Unlike many other sages, it is distinguished not only by its height and robustness but above all by this fragrance, which secured its place in perfumery, winemaking, and folk medicine. In the past it was valued as an additive to wine, imparting a muscat note, which is why in English it is called clary sage – the sage that “brings clarity” while enchanting with both scent and appearance.  

In the garden, clary sage serves as a dominant vertical accent, best displayed alongside plants with similar requirements for sun and dry soil. It pairs beautifully with Perovskia atriplicifolia, whose silvery, airy texture highlights the robust stature of clary sage while echoing its aromatic character. A contrast of forms comes from Echinacea purpurea, whose flat flower heads oppose the upright spikes of sage. For the lower layer, Stachys byzantina provides velvety silver foliage that enhances the pink‑purple bracts. Achillea millefolium adds pastel tones and delicate flower heads, while Nepeta × faassenii creates a violet‑flowering, aromatic groundcover that attracts pollinators. Together they form a composition that is not only aesthetically balanced but also long‑lasting and sustainable in dry plantings.  

Clary sage is an undemanding plant if given conditions that reflect its origins. It requires full sun and well‑drained, preferably calcareous soil, tolerates drought well, and dislikes waterlogging. It is most often grown as a biennial: in the first year it produces a strong rosette of leaves, in the second it flowers and usually dies back, though it can sometimes behave as a short‑lived perennial. It self‑seeds readily and, in a suitable site, will maintain itself in the garden. Hardy in Central European climates, it may rot in heavy, poorly drained soils during winter. Care consists mainly of ensuring a dry site and thinning seedlings when necessary, so that each plant has enough space to develop its monumental form. As a perennial it withstands frosts down to about −25 °C.  

Last update 18-09-2025

Waldsteinia geoides is one of the few representatives of its genus, yet at the same time the best known. In the wild it is found mainly in Central Europe, where it inhabits light deciduous forests, stony slopes, and humus-rich, well-drained soils. Unlike some related species, it does not form creeping mats but remains in compact clumps that appear like small islands of greenery. In some regions it was once regarded as a medicinal plant, elsewhere it was credited with the ability to “hold the soil together,” as if it carried in its roots a coded desire to protect slopes from erosion.  

Waldsteinia geoides grows in firm, compact tufts that resemble small green islands in a calm sea of soil. Its leaves are deciduous, deeply lobed, glossy, with finely serrated edges, and indeed reminiscent of Geum leaves. They retain a fresh green colour for most of the year and in autumn, in full sun, take on a touch of purplish tones. The flowers appear early in spring, usually in April, and have a bright yellow colour that contrasts with the dark green of the foliage. They are simple, five-petaled, borne singly or in small groups on short stems, and shine like tiny sunlit reflections in the undergrowth. The plant grows slowly, without expanding into its surroundings, and forms dense cushions. At first sight it may seem rather inconspicuous but once established you will find yourself drawn to it, for it radiates health, produces visible, pleasing increments, and makes every bed somehow fresher and more beautiful.  

In garden compositions, Waldsteinia geoides acts as a discreet yet very reliable element that does not shout with ostentation. It is well suited to the underplanting of shrubs and trees, where it creates calm green islands adorned in spring with tiny jewels of yellow blossoms. It combines beautifully with ferns, silver-leaved Brunnera, dark-leaved Actaea, or variegated Pulmonaria, to which it provides contrasting texture and colour. It also looks attractive alongside spring bulbs, which bloom above it as if over a firm green carpet. In naturalistic gardens it can evoke the atmosphere of a woodland corner, while in carefully maintained plantings it serves as an unobtrusive yet elegant complement that holds the line and brings harmony. It is a plant that does not impose itself, but when you look at it closely, you realize that it is precisely this one that gives the whole composition a sense of balance and calm.  

Waldsteinia geoides is not demanding at all when it comes to care. It thrives best in partial shade to shade, where it has sufficient moisture and humus-rich, well-drained soil. It tolerates heavier clays if they are not permanently waterlogged, and in prolonged drought it appreciates occasional watering. Fertilizing is not essential, but a light addition of compost in spring gives it strength and encourages richer flowering. Its hardiness is excellent, down to about –34 °C (USDA zone 4), and it survives even the harsh winters of Central Europe without protection. In containers it grows more slowly, but it will manage if they are protected from complete freezing.  

Last update 18-09-2025

Granatnaja is a Russian cultivar of crataegosorbus - a medium-sized tree with edible fruit. Its leaves are odd-pinnate, with lanceolate to elliptical, finely serrated leaflets that resemble hawthorn more than rowan, reflecting its hybrid origin. In autumn, the foliage turns vibrant shades of red-orange to deep purple, giving the tree striking seasonal character. The flowers appear in May—white, clustered in corymbs, and delicately fragrant, attracting pollinators like bees and butterflies. The fruits ripen from late August to September. They are pomegranate-red, cherry-sized, with orange to dark red flesh. The flavor is sweet-tart, mildly astringent, but without the bitterness typical of wild rowan berries. The fruits can be eaten fresh but are also excellent for jams, compotes, drying, or fruit wines. They remain on the tree even after the leaves fall, which is appreciated by both birds and gardeners looking to extend the harvest. The tree naturally forms a compact crown and grows to about 4–6 meters tall. Its growth is balanced, with no tendency to become leggy or overgrown, so it maintains a tidy appearance even without pruning.

‘Granatnaja’ works well as a specimen tree or as part of an edible hedge or so-called food forest, where it serves both ornamental and practical purposes. Thanks to its compact growth and attractive fruit, it fits beautifully into naturalistic gardens but also holds its own in urban plantings. It pairs well with shrubs like European cornelian cherry, medlar, sea buckthorn, or black chokeberry—all of which share similar growing needs and offer complementary flavors and colors. And you’ll surely appreciate a few nut-bearing companions nearby, such as hazel. Its autumn colors and long-lasting fruit add depth and seasonal rhythm to any planting.

Crataegosorbus is undemanding. It thrives best in full sun but tolerates partial shade. It prefers loamy or sandy-loam soil, from dry to moderately moist, with a pH ranging from slightly acidic to mildly alkaline. In the first years after planting, it’s advisable to stake the main shoot to encourage a straight trunk. Pruning is not essential, but light thinning in late winter supports healthy growth and fruiting. The fruits are easy to harvest, and the branches naturally straighten after the crop is removed. It is fully hardy down to –34 °C (USDA zone 4), making it well suited even for mountainous regions of Central Europe.

Last update 15-09-2025.

Burka is a unique hybrid rowan, growing to a height of around 3–5 meters, making it ideal for smaller gardens. Its habit is compact, with a naturally shaped, dense crown. Flowers appear from April to May, white and arranged in corymbs, attracting pollinators with their gentle fragrance. But the real magic comes at the end of summer, when the fruit begins to form – dark purple, almost black berries about 2 cm in size, ripening from August to September. The flesh is surprisingly yellow, juicy, and mildly tart, with hints of chokeberry and rowan. Unlike typical rowan berries, Burka’s fruit is not bitter – it can be eaten straight from the tree or used in the kitchen. Rich in vitamin C, antioxidants, and tannins that aid digestion, the berries are traditionally used in Russia for jams, compotes, wines, and dried fruit for tea blends. In modern cooking, they’re perfect for preserves, fermented drinks, or as a decorative touch on the plate. The fruit remains on the tree even after the leaves have fallen, appreciated by both birds and gardeners enjoying a late harvest.

The deciduous leaves of 'Burka' are a fascinating botanical curiosity. They are odd-pinnately compound (though not always!) and consist of several broadly elliptical leaflets with finely serrated edges, resembling those of aronia rather than rowan. What makes them particularly interesting is that the terminal leaflet is the largest, with the leaflets gradually decreasing in size toward the base of the rachis – a complete reversal of the typical rowan leaf pattern. They are dark green, slightly glossy, and turn purplish-red in autumn, making the tree an attractive focal point even after its flowers have faded. Don’t be discouraged by the drooping branches during fruiting, caused by the weight of the berries — they straighten up again after harvest. Thanks to its size, 'Burka' is suitable not only as a standalone specimen, but also for hedges or as part of edible landscapes, where it serves both aesthetic and practical purposes.
It pairs beautifully with shrubs like hazel, serviceberry, or elderberry, which complement its fruits both in flavor and appearance.

Hybrid rowan is undemanding. It tolerates sun and partial shade, prefers moist, well-drained soil, ideally slightly acidic. If you choose to grow 'Burka' as a single-stem tree, it’s recommended to stake the leader in the early years to encourage a straight trunk. Thanks to its naturally compact form, 'Burka' rarely requires intensive shaping. Pruning, if any, can be done in late winter – remove weak or damaged branches and lightly thin the crown. This promotes healthy growth, abundant flowering, and fruiting. It is hardy down to –34 °C (USDA zone 4), making it perfectly suited to colder climates and mountainous regions. 

Last update 15-09-2025.

When you look at this baby’s breath, it resembles a dainty alpine flower more than its robust florist cousins. Its blooms are perfectly symmetrical, as if cut from paper using the same stencil. They are small, white to pale pink, with fine veining that looks like a watercolour brushstroke. In parts of Tibet, it is affectionately called the “stone fairy,” as it grows directly from crevices between rocks, where most plants would long have given up. Its growth is strictly ground-hugging, forming dense, uninterrupted mats without empty holes. Only during flowering does it gently rise above the foliage to reveal its blossoms. The leaves are oval to obovate, medium green, covered with tiny hairs but glossy, and evergreen. It flowers from late spring to early summer, with blooms appearing gradually, as if each one wants its own moment to shine. It’s not a plant that impresses with size, but its subtlety and intricate beauty make it a true gem for rock gardens.

In the garden, it’s best suited for rockeries, stone walls, or gravel beds, where its natural habit can shine. It pairs beautifully with low-growing sedums, thymes, pulsatillas, gentians, senecios, or soapworts, which provide contrasting colours. In modern naturalistic plantings, it serves as a gentle filler among bolder species, but in minimalist designs, it can easily take the spotlight. Its creeping habit also makes it ideal for softening the edges of rockeries and walls.

It’s not demanding in terms of care, but it does require well-drained soil – ideally with added gravel or sand. It loves full sun, dislikes waterlogging, but unlike typical drought-tolerant plants, it occasionally appreciates a light watering. It’s hardy down to -34 °C (USDA zone 4), making it suitable for cold climates. Surprisingly, it also performs well in containers, provided it gets plenty of sun, good drainage, and occasional gentle watering.

Last update 15-09-2025

SEDUCTION® ROSE CHARM stonecrop is part of the Seduction® breeding series developed by the Dutch company Florensis. This cultivar quickly gained popularity thanks to its compact growth habit, abundant flowering, and attractive appearance. It produces small, star-shaped flowers composed of soft pink petals and a pale-yellow center, which darkens as the flower matures into purplish seed capsules. The flowers are arranged in flat corymb-like inflorescences that appear from late summer into autumn. The leaves are fleshy, oval, light pea green, with a subtle purplish tint when young. The plant reaches a height of around 30–40 cm and roughly the same width. Thanks to its low and dense growth, it forms an elegant cushion that expands into a lush clump each year. For a lower growth habit, the entire plant can be cut back by half around mid-June.

In the garden, SEDUCTION® ROSE CHARM works well as a groundcover perennial or as the front edge of a perennial border. It pairs beautifully with other succulents such as houseleeks (Sempervivum) or ice plants (Delosperma), as well as with fine-leaved grasses like feather grass (Stipa) or fescue (Festuca). It also stands out next to silvery foliage plants like woolly betony (Stachys byzantina), dusty miller (Jacobaea), or dark-leaved cultivars of tall stonecrops. In modern gardens, it serves as a subtle colour accent, while in cottage-style gardens it continues the tradition of stonecrops beloved by our grandmothers. Thanks to its late flowering, it provides bees and butterflies with a valuable nectar source at the end of the season. The cultivar is protected by European patent No. 60210, issued in 2022.

It needs very well-drained soil and doesn’t tolerate excess moisture – heavy soil or constantly wet spots may cause root and stem rot. Beyond that, care is minimal: no fertilizing, pruning, or winter protection required. In spring, remove old stems by cutting them close to the ground and allow fresh growth to emerge from below. Don't snap the stems off—use pruning shears to avoid damaging new buds forming at the base, often already present from the previous autumn. Watch out for slugs and act promptly if they appear. Night Embers is hardy down to approx. –40 °C (USDA zone 3).

Last update 15-09-2025

The botanical species of the rice-paper plant is a true head-turner. Do you remember when you last saw someone or something so beautiful that you forgot where you were walking and, turning your head, almost ended up bumping into a lamppost? What a classic movie gig! But this can easily happen here, I am telling you! 😊

It bears enormous, medium green, palmate, deeply lobed leaves, usually with 5 to 7 lobes that have slightly wavy edges. The width of the leaves ranges from 60 to 80 cm, occasionally reaching up to a meter, and they are carried on long, hollow petioles that emerge from the top of an unbranched stem. Each lobe—the tip of the leaf—ends in two smaller sub-lobes, resembling the claws of a giant lizard or a rooster on steroids. The overall impression is wild, as if nature designed it for a tropical thriller.

Depending on the climate zone where it is grown, it can be a deciduous shrub or semi-woody perennial up to 2–2.5 meters tall (in Central Europe), or a small evergreen tree reaching up to 5 meters (in subtropical regions). The surface of the leaves and young shoots is covered with fine rusty hairs, which may cause skin irritation in highly sensitive individuals. In subtropical climates and greenhouses, it can bloom in late summer with creamy white flowers arranged in spherical clusters that are highly attractive to pollinators. After flowering, small black fruits develop.

In 2007, renowned British gardener Christopher Lloyd mentioned Tetrapanax in his book Exotic Planting for Adventurous Gardeners, describing it as a plant with a prehistoric look and dramatic effect. The Rex cultivar has become an icon of jungle-style gardens that mimic tropical vegetation. Interestingly, even young plants produce enormous leaves, which is unusual for woody species. In some regions, Tetrapanax spreads aggressively via underground runners, earning it the nickname garden Godzilla.

In the garden, Tetrapanax Rex acts as a bold focal point, adding an exotic and architectural character to the composition. It fits well in subtropical borders, alongside modern homes, or in urban gardens where it stands out against clean lines. It pairs beautifully with hardy bananas and hardy begonias, or with dark- or bold-leaved perennials such as ligularia, cimicifuga, or rodgersia. For contrast, it also works well with larger clumps of fine-leaved grasses like Pennisetum, Panicum, or Deschampsia. Due to its size, it is best suited for larger spaces, but it can also be grown in large containers. Due to its massive leaves, other plants may struggle to thrive beneath it, so it’s best used as a dominant feature.

Chinese rice-paper plant prefers sunny to partially shaded locations, sheltered from strong winds. The soil should be humus-rich, well-drained, yet evenly moist – this plant does not tolerate waterlogging, especially in winter. During the growing season, it benefits from regular watering and feeding with a general-purpose fertilizer for leafy plants. In autumn, it’s advisable to mulch generously and protect the root crown from frost using straw, conifer branches, or bark. Under ideal growing conditions the plant tends to form runners, which can create dense colonies. Young plants are best overwintered in a cool, bright space and planted outdoors only when they are strong enough. Verified root hardiness reaches down to –24 °C (–11 °F), while above-ground parts may die back at around –10 °C (14 °F). Depending on the severity of the frost, the plant will re-emerge in spring either from the tips of undamaged stems or from the roots, and we are happy to confirm that in Central Europe, not a single specimen has died so far. Tetrapanax is not toxic, but its hairs may be irritating, so gloves are recommended when handling. It can be grown in large containers, but these must be stored frost-free during winter.

Last update: 14-09-2025

Rex is a fast-growing cultivar of the rice-paper plant with enormous and strikingly exotic leaves. Depending on the climate zone, it can grow as a deciduous shrub or semi-woody perennial up to 2–2.5 meters tall in Central Europe, or as a small evergreen tree reaching up to 5 meters in subtropical regions. Its gigantic leaves are deeply lobed, up to a meter wide, held on long and sturdy petioles that rarely break. This cultivar is recognizable by the regular cutouts along the leaf edges, as if shaped with cookie cutters. The surface of the leaves and young shoots are covered with fine rusty hairs, which may cause skin irritation in sensitive individuals. In subtropical climates or greenhouses, it can bloom in late summer with creamy white flowers arranged in spherical clusters that are highly attractive to pollinators. After flowering, small black fruits develop.

In 2007, renowned British gardener Christopher Lloyd mentioned Tetrapanax in his book Exotic Planting for Adventurous Gardeners, describing it as a plant with a prehistoric look and dramatic effect. The Rex cultivar has become an icon of jungle-style gardens that mimic tropical vegetation. Interestingly, even young plants produce enormous leaves, which is unusual for woody species. In some regions, Tetrapanax spreads aggressively via underground runners, earning it the nickname garden Godzilla.

In the garden, Tetrapanax Rex acts as a bold focal point, adding an exotic and architectural character to the composition. It fits well in subtropical borders, alongside modern homes, or in urban gardens where it stands out against clean lines. It pairs beautifully with hardy bananas and hardy begonias, or with dark- or bold-leaved perennials such as ligularia, cimicifuga, or rodgersia. For contrast, it also works well with larger clumps of fine-leaved grasses like Pennisetum, Panicum, or Deschampsia. Due to its size, it is best suited for larger spaces, but it can also be grown in large containers. Due to its massive leaves, other plants may struggle to thrive beneath it, so it’s best used as a dominant feature.

Chinese rice-paper plant prefers sunny to partially shaded locations, sheltered from strong winds. The soil should be humus-rich, well-drained, yet evenly moist – this plant does not tolerate waterlogging, especially in winter. During the growing season, it benefits from regular watering and feeding with a general-purpose fertilizer for leafy plants. In autumn, it’s advisable to mulch generously and protect the root crown from frost using straw, conifer branches, or bark. Under ideal growing conditions the plant tends to form runners, which can create dense colonies. Young plants are best overwintered in a cool, bright space and planted outdoors only when they are strong enough. Verified root hardiness reaches down to –24 °C (–11 °F), while above-ground parts may die back at around –10 °C (14 °F). Depending on the severity of the frost, the plant will re-emerge in spring either from the tips of undamaged stems or from the roots, and we are happy to confirm that in Central Europe, not a single specimen has died so far. Tetrapanax is not toxic, but its hairs may be irritating, so gloves are recommended when handling. It can be grown in large containers, but these must be stored frost-free during winter.

Last update: 14-09-2025

Not many growers specialize in breeding Rose-of-Sharon, so when someone devotes themselves to it purposefully and over the long term, they soon become recognized in their field. One such prominent research station is Hortival Diffusion in France — the new name for the Minier nursery, founded already in 1838 in Anjou. They have been working on hibiscus breeding since the 1960s, with Claude Bellion as the head of the breeding programme. Under his direction, large-flowered cultivars such as Pink Giant and Russian Violet (1970) were developed. His role was later taken over by Patrick Pineau, and as of 2025, the programme is coordinated by Pierre Chaussard. Thanks to their work, we can now enjoy improved older varieties like SUP’BRIDGE and SUP’HEART, the double-flowered French Cabaret® series, and the Chateau® series, which is currently gaining popularity mainly in the USA. New cultivars continue to emerge, and thanks to our longstanding partnership with the Minier nursery, we’re proud to present their latest innovations as they become available.

B'TWIST® LAVENDER variety brings another improvement to the already well‑known pink‑flowered cultivars of Rose-of-Sharon. Its blooms are enormous: 10–12 cm in diameter, with a clear lilac‑pink hue and a striking centre of a purplish‑red eye, whose rays burst like fireworks halfway into the petals. The pale cream column with stigmas and anthers in the middle — a typical feature of the entire mallow family (e.g. mallows or hollyhocks) — is not particularly conspicuous here, and is partly hidden by several small, stunted petals. B'TWIST® LAVENDER grows into an attractive, upright, healthy shrub, putting on about 30 cm of growth per year, reaching a mature height of 2.5–3 metres. It retains an upright, densely branched habit and strong stems that easily bear the profusion of flowers from July to September. In 2020, it was awarded ADR by the Royal Horticultural Society in England.

It has very decorative leaves that are unique. They are shallowly lobed, palmate, mid to dark green and coarsely toothed. If they turn yellow in summer the plant manifests too much water at the roots. They are either overwatered or planted in too heavy soil where it has not established yet. 

Pruning is an issue that always gets me started here. Hard pruning leads to larger flowers, that's true, but also production of long, immature, flexible twigs. The only cut I recommend is such that rejuvenates old plans – prune it hard in early spring by 50-75 % and let it grow for another 10 years or so. Rose-of-Sharon is quite adaptable of soil type. It can take drought but does not look good if dry for too long. It loves moisture fully established plants thrive on occasional flooding in summer, but you cannot transplant it into standing water. Old plants dislike peat. Selective fertilizers enhancing flowering are convenient but not crucial. Place it in full sun only. Fully hardy to min. -27 °C (USDA zone 5) and not suitable for pots.

Last update 11-09-2025

If you are passionate about naturalistic gardens, you’ll fall for giant scabious. Its flowers levitate in the breeze with the lightness of a woodland fairy, looking as though they were crocheted by moonlight. They are delicate, butter‑yellow, dome-shaped spheres that hover high above the border – not shouting for attention but whispering elegance. The inflorescences are made up of dozens of tiny tubular florets, each with its own crown, ready to welcome a bumblebee or butterfly. The stems that carry them are upright, slender, and strong, reaching over two metres in height. Yet they appear weightless, as if holding themselves aloft. They are neither heavy nor coarse – more like blades of grass that decided to grow into the sky. Flowering reliably from late spring to mid‑summer, they benefit from having the spent flowering stems cut back to the base of the leaf rosette or to the first strong leaf on the stem, which prolongs the display and keeps the plant tidy.

While the flowers rest with their heads in the clouds and sway in the breeze with an almost otherworldly grace, the plant’s feet are anchored in a massive rosette of slightly downy leaves, reminiscent of a dandelion in giant form. Each leaf is deeply lobed, lanceolate to oblong, with a prominent midrib and finely toothed edges. In summer they shine with fresh green, forming a sturdy, rustic contrast to the delicate blooms above. With the arrival of the first cool nights in late summer, their colour begins to shift – darker tones seep into the veins until the entire leaf turns maroon, lending the plant a dramatic autumn presence.

In a perennial border, giant scabious serves as an airy architectural element, adding both height and lightness. It most often belongs at the back, unless you’re creating island beds where you want to raise the centre. It fits beautifully into naturalistic plantings, where it can dance freely among yarrows, coneflowers, cornflowers, or verbenas. Paired with ornamental grasses such as stipa, calamagrostis, or pennisetum, the planting gains movement and a subtly shifting structure. Alongside taller varieties of romantic perennials – such as gauras, flowering sages or knautia – the contrast between the softness of its blooms and the richness of its neighbours’ colours is striking. At the back of a mixed border, it creates a light, translucent backdrop that allows shorter plants in the foreground to shine, while visually uniting the whole composition.

Giant scabious is a surprisingly undemanding and adaptable perennial. It thrives best in full sun or light partial shade, sheltered from strong winds that could topple its tall stems. It prefers deep, fertile, well‑drained soil, ideally slightly alkaline to neutral, but will tolerate ordinary garden soil as long as it isn’t waterlogged. Once established, it can handle short dry spells, though it appreciates occasional watering in hot summers. It reproduces by seed but is not invasive; to prevent self‑seeding, remove spent flowers before the seeds ripen. In early spring, before new growth emerges, cut back all above‑ground parts. Fully hardy in USDA zones 4–9 (to about –34 °C), it is a long‑lived perennial that will remain vigorous for many years in the same spot, though it benefits from occasional division in spring or autumn.

Last update 12-09-2025

Metallica Crispa is a striking cultivar of pyramidal bugleweed, a species native to alpine regions of Europe. Unlike the more vigorous A. reptans, this form grows in compact rosettes and spreads slowly. Its foliage is highly ornamental and semi-evergreen in mild climates. The leaves have a metallic sheen and range in colour from deep green to bronze-purple and nearly black, depending on light and season. Their surface is puckered and blistered, with wavy edges that give the plant a sculptural texture. The leaves form a dense, low mat, and from late spring to late summer, the plant produces short, about 25 cm tall, upright spikes of deep blue to violet two-lipped flowers. The plant’s size without flowers is typically about 10-15 cm tall and 40-50 cm in width. Propagation occurs via short rhizomes, and the plant is notably resistant to soil-borne diseases that often affect A. reptans.

The origin of Metallica Crispa remains undocumented. It is listed as a recognized cultivar in databases such as the Royal Horticultural Society, but without attribution to a breeder or date of introduction. Based on available records, it likely emerged as a garden selection in Western Europe – possibly in the UK or Germany – sometime in the 20th century. The earliest confirmed herbarium specimen dates to 1999, collected in Surrey, England by K. Simpson. However, nursery catalogues suggest it was already in circulation by the 1980s, and it has since become a reliable fixture in European horticulture. The lack of formal registration implies it was propagated vegetatively and adopted informally, which is common for older perennial selections.

In garden design, bugleweed excels as a groundcover for partial shade or dappled light. It pairs beautifully with brunneras, hostas, heucheras, ornamental grasses, and ferns – especially in contrasting colour schemes. It also performs well in lightly shaded but not too dry rock gardens, between stones, or as a border edging. Its dark foliage provides a dramatic backdrop for pale-flowering perennials. In containers, it works as a trailing accent, particularly alongside small-flowered annuals, adding depth and texture to mixed plantings.

This cultivar is low-maintenance and adaptable. It thrives in humus-rich, well-drained soils of any pH, with moderate moisture, and prefers partial shade. It is fully hardy down to –37 °C (USDA zone 3) and highly resistant to pests and diseases. As a member of Ajuga pyramidalis, it maintains a compact form without stolons, remaining stable in its location. If the plant begins to decline, it’s usually due to environmental stress rather than natural migration. Occasional division and replanting will rejuvenate it and help maintain vigour. In containers, be mindful of overwatering.

Last update 11-09-2025

Following this lineage is the modern cultivar BLOOM ME AWAY, bred in the Netherlands by Garry Grueber. It originated as a selection from open pollination of other hybrid cranesbills in 2012 in the growing area of Warmond. Its flowers are notable for always facing upwards and turning towards the sun during the day. They are five petalled, blue to blue violet with pronounced purple veining and yellow pollen, measuring about 4 cm in diameter. Flowers are borne in pairs in axillary cymes, with an average of 16 buds and 4 open flowers per lateral stem at any one time. Flowering naturally begins in July and continues until October, with buds opening gradually every 2–3 days. The flowers are self cleaning and require no deadheading. As a vegetatively propagated cultivar, its traits remain stable, though flower colour intensity and flowering density may vary slightly depending on light and temperature conditions.

This perennial has a compact, slightly spreading to cushion forming habit, reaching about 20 cm in height and up to 45 cm in width. It produces dense basal branching – around 20 lateral shoots on average – and quickly covers the ground with a continuous mat of foliage. The stems are slender and flexible, up to 45 cm long, and the deciduous leaves are as attractive as the flowers. They are opposite, palmately divided into deep lobes, finely serrated, rich green, and softly hairy on both sides. In high summer temperatures, small red speckles may appear on the leaves – not a disease, but a natural stress response. The cultivar is protected by U.S. Plant Patent No. PP32481, granted in 2020.

Thanks to its compact growth, long flowering period, and heat tolerance, BLOOM ME AWAY is ideal for perennial borders, the front of mixed beds, urban plantings, naturalistic gardens, and as a groundcover under small trees and shrubs on sunny sides, where it will bloom profusely. It also performs well in containers on terraces and balconies (recommended pot diameter at least 25 cm). In full bloom, it creates a continuous carpet of colour that attracts pollinators, and after flowering it remains decorative thanks to its foliage.

Hybrids of Geranium wallichianum thrive best in full sun to light partial shade, in well drained, moderately fertile, and slightly moist soil that must not remain waterlogged. They tolerate ordinary garden conditions but appreciate regular watering during hot spells. After flowering, spent stems and older leaves can be cut back to encourage fresh foliage and maintain a compact shape. Feeding is an option, not a must. It is hardy down to about –34 °C (USDA Zone 4) and can also be grown in containers.

Last update 10-09-2025

Father Hugo’s Rose belongs to the group of botanical roses with fine, delicate leaflets. It was first described by British botanist William Botting Hemsley at the end of the 19th century. The species was named after Scottish missionary and plant collector Reverend William Hugo, who discovered it in central China and sent it to Europe around 1899, where it quickly gained admiration for its early and abundant flowering. In the wild, it grows in central and northern China – from Sichuan and Gansu through Shanxi to Manchuria – and in Korea. It can be found on sunny slopes, in thickets, and along the edges of light woodlands, often high in the mountains, up to 2,300 metres above sea level. At the time of its discovery, it was one of the few known roses with a pure yellow flower, which caused quite a stir in Europe and sparked great interest among breeders as well as rose collectors.

The flowers appear singly on new shoots and are a true ornament – five delicate petals in shades ranging from pale to rich yellow, about 4–5 cm in diameter. At the centre are golden stamens that attract bees. After flowering, it produces small, reddish‑brown hips. It blooms very early, often in the second half of April, when most roses are only just budding, and it pairs beautifully with gardens where magnolias in pink shades are in bloom. As a botanical species, it can vary slightly in its details – some plants have paler or deeper yellow flowers, denser or sparser thorns, larger or smaller hips, and even the size of the leaves can differ. In the wild and in cultivation, it can be confused with related species, especially Rosa xanthina. Its deciduous foliage is very attractive: pinnate leaves are composed of 7 to 15 finely serrated, matte green leaflets that turn yellow in autumn.

Father Hugo’s Rose forms upright to slightly arching shrubs, 2–3 m tall and wide, occasionally more. It grows at a moderate rate – adding about 30–40 cm per year. The branches are slender and densely covered with fine, straight thorns, which may be reddish on young shoots. It is ideal for informal hedges, as a lawn specimen, or in naturalistic plantings. It is also well suited to public greenery – hardy, undemanding, and flowering at a time when other roses are still dormant. In addition, it is very healthy, resistant to common diseases and pests, tolerant of poorer soils, and unfazed by frost.

It thrives best in full sun and well‑drained, moderately fertile soil. It will tolerate drier sites but appreciates watering when forming buds. It is not fussy about soil pH. It flowers only once a year, but very profusely. Pruning is not essential, but possible – after flowering, you can remove old, weakly flowering stems to encourage new growth, or shape it into a hedge, either after flowering or in early spring before leaf‑out. It is fully hardy to at least –29 °C (USDA Zone 5), so it overwinters without problems even in harsher climates. Due to its size and deep root system, it is not suitable for long‑term container growing – it performs best in open ground.

Last update 09-09-2025

Little Lady abelia is an attractive, evergreen to semi‑evergreen, slow‑growing shrub that flowers profusely from mid‑summer until the first frosts. The small, tubular blooms are almost white with a delicate pink blush, pleasantly fragrant, and irresistible to butterflies and other pollinators. Their charm is enhanced by prominent purplish calyces that persist after the petals fall, extending the ornamental effect well into autumn, almost as if the plant bloomed a second time, now in a different colour.

The leaves are small, elliptic to ovate, and highly glossy, giving the shrub a lush appearance even before flowering begins. Over the growing season, their colour shifts from bright green in spring to deeper summer shades, and finally to coppery tones in autumn. Naturally forming a broad, rounded to dome-shaped, the mature plant reaches about 50–100 cm in both height and width. Dense branching creates a rich, continuous canopy without gaps, making it ideal for smaller gardens, front yards, or container planting. 

Little Lady originated as a spontaneous mutation of the cultivar ‘Prostrata’, discovered in August 2015 by Klemens Keysers at his nursery in Kevelaer, Germany. Since 2020, it has been protected under U.S. Plant Patent PP31,410. The dense, compact habit of this variety makes it almost universally adaptable – pair it with dwarf conifers for a flowering accent that doesn’t demand much space; combine it in evergreen arrangements with contrasting foliage shapes (such as Prunus laurocerasus ‘Sofia’, reddening leucothoe, or hardy euphorbia); mix it with other fine‑leafed shrubs (choisya, hebe, berberis); or plant it among drought‑tolerant species (caryopteris, vitex, arbutus, ornamental grasses) for a low‑maintenance display.

Abelias love full sun and once established they are notably drought‑tolerant requiring no extra watering even in dry summers. In spring, they can be shaped with a light trim but also tolerate hard rejuvenation pruning into older wood. Older encyclopedias often list them as marginally hardy in our C.E. climate, but long‑term trials have shown they grow and bloom even after severe winters. Only in higher elevations should they be placed in a spot sheltered from harsh, freezing winds. Abelias are completely undemanding regarding soil, coping even with clay subsoils – provided they are not left standing in water during their first year after planting. ‘Little Lady’ is hardy to at least –29 °C without any protection (USDA zone 5).

Last update 07-09-2025

ELFIN SWAN™ anemone forms a compact clump approximately 35–45 cm tall, under ideal conditions yet some 20-30 cm taller, from which sturdy, upright, and delicately branched stems emerge. Its single flowers are 4–6 cm in diameter, pure white on the front and strikingly bluish-purple on the reverse, typically with 6–8 petals and a yellow center of stamens. The leaves are medium-sized, deep green, deeply palmately lobed, and coarsely toothed at the edges. They form a dense basal foliage that enhances the bicolor effect of the flowers and adds ornamental value even outside the blooming period – which is almost a contradiction, as this anemone can bloom from June all the way into autumn under favourable conditions. It is considered the most compact of the entire Swan series and is protected by the U.S. Plant Patent PP30,496, granted in 2019.
 
It excels in the front sections of mixed perennial borders, where its compact habit allows the white flowers with bluish-purple undersides to shine above the darker foliage of surrounding plants. In light partial shade under trees or taller shrubs, it creates a regular rhythm of blooms from June to October, beautifully complementing other long-flowering perennials such as geraniums. It pairs well with the contrasting foliage of many heucheras and is also striking when combined with ferns or tiarella. Let your imagination run wild: plant dark-leaved heuchera on one side and a golden-leaved variety of hakone grass on the other, and you’ll have a true spectacle!

It thrives best in a location with well-drained, humus-rich, and evenly moist soil, ideally in partial shade where it is protected from harsh midday sun. It can tolerate full sun if adequately watered, and in light shade under trees or shrubs it maintains its compact shape and abundant flowering. Regular watering during dry periods is essential, especially in the first years after planting, along with occasional feeding with compost or fertilizer for flowering perennials. Removing spent flower stems continuously encourages new bud formation and extends the blooming period. It is fully hardy to approximately −34 °C (USDA zone 4), so it does not require winter protection in most conditions. However, in areas with bare frosts, a light mulch of leaves or evergreen branches is appreciated, and year-round bark mulch helps prevent rapid drying.

Last update 07-09-2025

Not many growers specialize in breeding Rose-of-Sharon, so when someone devotes themselves to it purposefully and over the long term, they soon become recognized in their field. One such prominent research station is Hortival Diffusion in France — the new name for the Minier nursery, founded already in 1838 in Anjou. They have been working on hibiscus breeding since the 1960s, with Claude Bellion as the head of the breeding programme. Under his direction, large-flowered cultivars such as Pink Giant and Russian Violet (1970) were developed. His role was later taken over by Patrick Pineau, and as of 2025, the programme is coordinated by Pierre Chaussard. Thanks to their work, we can now enjoy improved older varieties like SUP’BRIDGE and SUP’HEART, the double-flowered French Cabaret® series, and the Chateau® series, which is currently gaining popularity mainly in the USA. New cultivars continue to emerge, and thanks to our longstanding partnership with the Minier nursery, we’re proud to present their latest innovations as they become available.

Imagine a shade of blue like the summer sky just before dusk, when its deep hue mingles with a touch of sunset glow. Such is the colour of the stunning BEAUTIFULL® COBALT Rose-of-Sharon, introduced in 2024 and developed by the team of breeders at Hortival Diffusion. Its large blooms, spanning 8–10 cm, provocatively shine in a rich pastel blue‑violet, deeper than that of the famous BLUE CHIFFON® variety. At the centre lies a dark maroon eye with short rays and a lush ring of small, dwarf petals that almost conceal the pale cream‑coloured style with stigmas and anthers – a hallmark of the mallow family (such as mallows and hollyhocks). The shrub grows at a moderate rate (20–30 cm per year) to reach 2–3 m in height, maintaining an upright, densely branched habit and strong stems that easily carry the profusion of flowers BEAUTIFULL® COBALT offers from July to September. It produces few seeds – meaning less mess and a longer, cleaner flowering season.

It has very decorative leaves that are unique. They are shallowly lobed, palmate, mid to dark green and coarsely toothed. If they turn yellow in summer the plant manifests too much water at the roots. They are either overwatered or planted in too heavy soil where it has not established yet. 

Pruning is an issue that always gets me started here. Hard pruning leads to larger flowers, that's true, but also production of long, immature, flexible twigs. The only cut I recommend is such that rejuvenates old plans – prune it hard in early spring by 50-75 % and let it grow for another 10 years or so. Rose-of-Sharon is quite adaptable of soil type. It can take drought but does not look good if dry for too long. It loves moisture fully established plants thrive on occasional flooding in summer, but you cannot transplant it into standing water. Old plants dislike peat. Selective fertilizers enhancing flowering are convenient but not crucial. Place it in full sun only. Fully hardy to min. -27 °C (USDA zone 5) and not suitable for pots.

Last update 01-09-2025

Not many growers specialize in breeding Rose-of-Sharon, so when someone devotes themselves to it purposefully and over the long term, they soon become recognized in their field. One such prominent research station is Hortival Diffusion in France — the new name for the Minier nursery, founded already in 1838 in Anjou. They have been working on hibiscus breeding since the 1960s, with Claude Bellion as the head of the breeding programme. Under his direction, large-flowered cultivars such as Pink Giant and Russian Violet (1970) were developed. His role was later taken over by Patrick Pineau, and as of 2025, the programme is coordinated by Pierre Chaussard. Thanks to their work, we can now enjoy improved older varieties like SUP’BRIDGE and SUP’HEART, the double-flowered French Cabaret® series, and the Chateau® series, which is currently gaining popularity mainly in the USA. New cultivars continue to emerge, and thanks to our longstanding partnership with the Minier nursery, we’re proud to present their latest innovations as they become available.

When you hear the name POMPEI®, most of us think of the famous Roman city that, centuries ago, was buried under tons of volcanic ash. Perhaps it was the image of glowing energy and the dramatic colours of an eruption that inspired the creators of this Rose-of-Sharon to choose a name that conveys the same intensity – its blooms shine from afar like a volcanic explosion, though this time only figuratively and entirely safely. They have a glowing raspberry‑pink hue and a diameter of up to 10 cm, placing this cultivar among the largest‑flowered within the species. The flowers are semi‑double – five large petals are enriched with a ring of smaller, stunted ones that partially conceal the pale cream‑coloured column with stigmas and stamens, typical of the mallow family (e.g., mallows or hollyhocks). They also cover a small red eye in the centre. The shrub grows at a moderate rate (20–30 cm per year) and reaches a height of 2–3 metres, maintaining an upright, densely branched habit. It was first introduced in 2024 and is protected under patent no. PP36672 from 2025.

It has very decorative leaves that are unique. They are shallowly lobed, palmate, mid to dark green and coarsely toothed. If they turn yellow in summer the plant manifests too much water at the roots. They are either overwatered or planted in too heavy soil where it has not established yet. 

Pruning is an issue that always gets me started here. Hard pruning leads to larger flowers, that's true, but also production of long, immature, flexible twigs. The only cut I recommend is such that rejuvenates old plans – prune it hard in early spring by 50-75 % and let it grow for another 10 years or so. Rose-of-Sharon is quite adaptable of soil type. It can take drought but does not look good if dry for too long. It loves moisture fully established plants thrive on occasional flooding in summer, but you cannot transplant it into standing water. Old plants dislike peat. Selective fertilizers enhancing flowering are convenient but not crucial. Place it in full sun only. Fully hardy to min. -27 °C (USDA zone 5) and not suitable for pots.

Last update 31-08-2025

Not many growers specialize in breeding Rose-of-Sharon, so when someone devotes themselves to it purposefully and over the long term, they soon become recognized in their field. One such prominent research station is Hortival Diffusion in France — the new name for the Minier nursery, founded already in 1838 in Anjou. They have been working on hibiscus breeding since the 1960s, with Claude Bellion as the head of the breeding programme. Under his direction, large-flowered cultivars such as Pink Giant and Russian Violet (1970) were developed. His role was later taken over by Patrick Pineau, and as of 2025, the programme is coordinated by Pierre Chaussard. Thanks to their work, we can now enjoy improved older varieties like SUP’BRIDGE and SUP’HEART, the double-flowered French Cabaret® series, and the Chateau® series, which is currently gaining popularity mainly in the USA. New cultivars continue to emerge, and thanks to our longstanding partnership with the Minier nursery, we’re proud to present their latest innovations as they become available.

IGLOO® is a Rose-of-Sharon cultivar which is, in a word, stunning, and its name is spot-on – a glance at the flower evokes a cold igloo, which in this case will not melt. On the contrary, it seeks out the summer sun and basks in it. The flowers are white with delicately cool bluish edges, as if they wanted to sip ink but changed their mind at the last moment, ending up just a pale bluish-violet. They are large, with a small red eye at the center and a pale cream column topped with stigmas and stamens – typical of the mallow family (such as mallows or hollyhocks). The column is partially hidden among several smaller, stunted petals. The shrub grows at a moderate rate (20–30 cm per year) and reaches a height of 2–3 meters, maintaining an upright, densely branched habit. It was first introduced in 2024.

It has very decorative leaves that are unique. They are shallowly lobed, palmate, mid to dark green and coarsely toothed. If they turn yellow in summer the plant manifests too much water at the roots. They are either overwatered or planted in too heavy soil where it has not established yet. 

Pruning is an issue that always gets me started here. Hard pruning leads to larger flowers, that's true, but also production of long, immature, flexible twigs. The only cut I recommend is such that rejuvenates old plans – prune it hard in early spring by 50-75 % and let it grow for another 10 years or so. Rose-of-Sharon is quite adaptable of soil type. It can take drought but does not look good if dry for too long. It loves moisture fully established plants thrive on occasional flooding in summer, but you cannot transplant it into standing water. Old plants dislike peat. Selective fertilizers enhancing flowering are convenient but not crucial. Place it in full sun only. Fully hardy to min. -27 °C (USDA zone 5) and not suitable for pots.

Last update 31-08-2025

Royal Ruby is an older cultivar of coral bells, believed to have been developed by Alan Bloom of Bressingham Gardens (UK) around 1953. Bloom was a prominent British horticulturist who began developing the gardens at Bressingham Hall in Norfolk in 1953, specializing in perennials and pioneering the concept of “island beds.” Those were freestanding flower beds set in lawn, designed to be viewed from all sides and to create a sculptural, dynamic effect in the garden landscape. Over the course of his career, he bred more than 170 new perennial cultivars, including several heucheras. Royal Ruby is a hybrid of H. sanguinea × H. × brizoides, forming compact, usually evergreen clumps about 25–30 cm tall with striking ruby red foliage that is most intense in spring. From late spring to early summer, it produces tiny rose-red flowers on slender stems reaching 40–50 cm in height. Its foliage colour is exquisite and beautifully complements perennial borders – either as a red accent in a tone-on-tone composition or as a vivid contrast to differently coloured leaves or blooms.

Coral bells are hardy and mostly evergreen perennials, mainly used as ground covers, however, they are excellent companions to plants with other textures, especially when mass planted. They prefer lightly shaded locations and evenly moist, nutrient-rich soil—soil pH does not matter. With occasional watering, they can tolerate full sun, except for light-colored varieties, unless specifically bred for sun exposure. They can even grow in shade, though their colors will be less vivid. In early spring, simply trim all leaves, allowing fresh new foliage to emerge. Fertilization is not required but significantly enhances their appearance and vigour. They are hardy to approximately -34 °C (USDA zone 4) and can be grown in outdoor containers as well.

Last update 22-08-2025

MOOODZ® JEALOUSY is a compact coneflower with large, 8-10 cm across, unusual blooms blending apple green ray florets with a prominent golden, domed centre. The petals have elegantly rounded, almost spoon-shaped tips; they are lighter near the centre, darkening toward the edges. Plants grow to about half a meter tall, bloom from early summer, and attract bees, bumblebees, butterflies, and hummingbird moths. Thanks to its unusual colouring, it looks both exotic and modern – perfect for stylish planters in hypermodern, minimalist designs. It also plays its part beautifully in a mixed perennial border, nestled among plants whose colours complement it. The leaves are deciduous, broadly lance-shaped, dark green, and rise upward along the stems. The variety was launched at the FlowerTrials exhibition in the Netherlands in 2021.

Coneflowers are beautiful, low-maintenance perennials that bloom from the first half of summer until autumn. The central discs hide nectar eagerly sought by butterflies and bumblebees. Regular deadheading, along with occasional feeding with liquid fertilizers, will extend the flowering season. Their stems are very sturdy, withstanding heavy rain and wind. They will grow in almost any well-drained, non-waterlogged soil in full sun, but dislike overly acidic conditions. Although native to the prairies, experience shows that hybrid types in particular dislike prolonged drought and appreciate extra watering during the driest parts of the year. In spring, watch out for slug invasions, which can consume much of the fresh growth – offering them beer traps is a great and effective way to lure them to a boozy demise while protecting your plants. Hardy to at least -29 °C (USDA zone 5), possibly lower, and requiring no winter protection.

Last update 20-08-2025

Double Scoop™ is an American breeding series of double-flowered coneflowers from the program of PanAmerican Seed (Illinois, USA), created by plant breeder Jianping Ren, originally from China. Cultivars in this series are characterized by large, richly coloured blooms with a distinctive pompon-like central cone surrounded by a ring of ray florets, giving them an exceptionally lush and decorative appearance. Plants are compact, sturdy, and well-branched, with a long flowering season from early summer through to autumn.

DOUBLE SCOOP™ CRANBERRY is a double-flowered coneflower from the American Double Scoop™ series, which features cultivars with exuberant blooms reminiscent of a winter beanie 😊. At first, the flowers are flat and appear single, but soon they begin to rise and form a dense, tightly packed bloom with a prominent pompon-like centre encircled by miniature ray florets — a true “bobble” on an imaginary hat. The flower colour starts coral-orange and matures to a rich cranberry pink. Plants reach 50–60 cm in height, are compact, well-branched, and sturdy, bred for lasting performance in both garden beds and containers. They excel in colour stability, high ornamental value, and attractiveness to pollinators. Introduced to the market in 2014, this cultivar is protected by U.S. Plant Patent PP24,769 and European Plant Breeders’ Rights EU PBR 37709.

Coneflowers are beautiful, low-maintenance perennials that bloom from the first half of summer until autumn. The central discs hide nectar eagerly sought by butterflies and bumblebees. Regular deadheading, along with occasional feeding with liquid fertilizers, will extend the flowering season. Their stems are very sturdy, withstanding heavy rain and wind. They will grow in almost any well-drained, non-waterlogged soil in full sun, but dislike overly acidic conditions. Although native to the prairies, experience shows that hybrid types in particular dislike prolonged drought and appreciate extra watering during the driest parts of the year. In spring, watch out for slug invasions, which can consume much of the fresh growth – offering them beer traps is a great and effective way to lure them to a boozy demise while protecting your plants. Hardy to at least -34 °C (USDA zone 4) and requiring no winter protection.

Last update 20-08-2025

If you have known hardy hibiscus for many years and think nothing could surprise you, lo and behold — before you stands this beauty. The special Walberton’s® Lunar® series looks as if it had slipped out of a tropical glasshouse into an ordinary European garden — and yet, for all its exotic air, it is reliably hardy to our Central European climate and winters. It was created as a bold interspecific cross between Hibiscus syriacus and Hibiscus paramutabilis, combining vigour and toughness with elegance, large blooms, and colours that seem almost unreal. Behind this discovery stands David Tristram, a respected British breeder who began his ambitious programme of targeted hybridisation back in the 1980s. He is also the founder of Walberton Nursery (1973), a nursery renowned for its innovations and botanical curiosities. In our region, their double-flowered azaleas are especially well known. New varieties are bred by Eva Erhart.

WALBERTON’S® LUNAR® RHAPSODY is an extravagant hybrid hardy hibiscus with extra-large flower 15-16 cm across. They are rich magenta with a small ruby red eye and a few dwarf sepals in the centre, casually layered around a less conspicuous, pale cream column of styles and stamens – typical of the mallow family (such as malva or hollyhock) – adds a dramatic focal point to the bloom. Growth is moderate (20–30 cm annually), reaching around 2 m in height, and occasionally more under exceptionally good conditions. The shrub has a somewhat open, “untidy” habit – an easy flaw to forgive given the splendour of its flowers. The variety is protected by US plant patent No. PP36,541 from 2025.

It has very decorative leaves that are unique. They are shallowly lobed, palmate, mid to dark green and coarsely toothed. If they turn yellow in summer the plant manifests too much water at the roots. They are either overwatered or planted in too heavy soil where it has not established yet. 

Pruning is an issue that always gets me started here. Hard pruning leads to larger flowers, that's true, but also production of long, immature, flexible twigs. The only cut I recommend is such that rejuvenates old plans – prune it hard in early spring by 50-75 % and let it grow for another 10 years or so. Rose-of-Sharon is quite adaptable of soil type. It can take drought but does not look good if dry for too long. It loves moisture fully established plants thrive on occasional flooding in summer, but you cannot transplant it into standing water. Old plants dislike peat. Selective fertilizers enhancing flowering are convenient but not crucial. Place it in full sun only. Fully hardy to min. -25 °C (USDA zone 6) and not suitable for pots.

Last update 19-08-2025

If you have known hardy hibiscus for many years and think nothing could surprise you, lo and behold — before you stands this beauty. The special Walberton’s® Lunar® series looks as if it had slipped out of a tropical glasshouse into an ordinary European garden — and yet, for all its exotic air, it is reliably hardy to our Central European climate and winters. It was created as a bold interspecific cross between Hibiscus syriacus and Hibiscus paramutabilis, combining vigour and toughness with elegance, large blooms, and colours that seem almost unreal. Behind this discovery stands David Tristram, a respected British breeder who began his ambitious programme of targeted hybridisation back in the 1980s. He is also the founder of Walberton Nursery (1973), a nursery renowned for its innovations and botanical curiosities. In our region, their double-flowered azaleas are especially well known. New varieties are bred by Eva Erhart.

WALBERTON’S® LUNAR® FLARE is a hybrid hardy hibiscus with a flower of tropical allure measuring around 15 cm across. The flowers are snowy white with brilliant ruby red rays radiating from the center towards the edges of the petals. A less conspicuous, pale cream column of styles and stamens – typical of the mallow family (such as malva or hollyhock) – adds a dramatic focal point to the bloom. Growth is moderate (20–30 cm annually), reaching around 2 m in height, and occasionally more under exceptionally good conditions. The shrub has a somewhat open, “untidy” habit – an easy flaw to forgive given the splendour of its flowers. The variety is protected by US plant patent No. PP36,438 from 2025.

It has very decorative leaves that are unique. They are shallowly lobed, palmate, mid to dark green and coarsely toothed. If they turn yellow in summer the plant manifests too much water at the roots. They are either over-watered or planted in too heavy soil where it has not established yet. 

Pruning is an issue that always gets me started here. Hard pruning leads to larger flowers, that's true, but also production of long, immature, flexible twigs. The only cut I recommend is such that rejuvenates old plans – prune it hard in early spring by 50-75 % and let it grow for another 10 years or so. Rose-of-Sharon is quite adaptable of soil type. It can take drought but does not look good if dry for too long. It loves moisture fully established plants thrive on occasional flooding in summer, but you cannot transplant it into standing water. Old plants dislike peat. Selective fertilizers enhancing flowering are convenient but not crucial. Place it in full sun only. Fully hardy to min. -25 °C (USDA zone 6) and not suitable for pots.

Last update 19-08-2025

If you have known Rose-of-Sharon for many years and think nothing could surprise you, lo and behold — before you stands this beauty. The special Walberton’s® Lunar® series looks as if it had slipped out of a tropical glasshouse into an ordinary European garden — and yet, for all its exotic air, it is reliably hardy to our Central European climate and winters. It was created as a daring interspecific cross between Hibiscus syriacus and Hibiscus paramutabilis, combining vigour and toughness with elegance, large blooms, and colours that seem almost unreal. Behind this discovery stands David Tristram, a respected British breeder who began his ambitious programme of targeted hybridisation back in the 1980s. He is also the founder of Walberton Nursery (1973), a nursery renowned for its innovations and botanical curiosities. In our region, their double-flowered azaleas are especially well known.

WALBERTON’S® LUNAR® ECLIPSE is a hybrid hardy hibiscus with a flower of tropical allure measuring around 15 cm across. Deep magenta petals are marked with a dark ruby red eye that bleeds into two-thirds of their length. A prominent, pale cream column of styles and stamens – typical of the mallow family (such as malva or hollyhock) – adds a dramatic focal point to the bloom, reminiscent of a drawn rapier. Growth is moderate (20–30 cm annually), reaching around 2 m in height, and occasionally more under exceptionally good conditions. The shrub has a somewhat open, “untidy” habit – an easy flaw to forgive given the splendour of its flowers. The variety is protected by US plant patent No. PP36,618 from 2025.

It has very decorative leaves that are unique. They are shallowly lobed, palmate, mid to dark green and coarsely toothed. If they turn yellow in summer the plant manifests too much water at the roots. They are either over-watered or planted in too heavy soil where it has not established yet. 

Pruning is an issue that always gets me started here. Hard pruning leads to larger flowers, that's true, but also production of long, immature, flexible twigs. The only cut I recommend is such that rejuvenates old plans – prune it hard in early spring by 50-75 % and let it grow for another 10 years or so. Rose-of-Sharon is quite adaptable of soil type. It can take drought but does not look good if dry for too long. It loves moisture fully established plants thrive on occasional flooding in summer, but you cannot transplant it into standing water. Old plants dislike peat. Selective fertilizers enhancing flowering are convenient but not crucial. Place it in full sun only. Fully hardy to min. -25 °C (USDA zone 6) and not suitable for pots.

Last update 13-08-2025

Queen Victoria is a statuesque cultivar of cardinal flower that has long graced temperate-climate gardens. From mid-summer to early autumn, it produces tall, terminal flower spikes packed with large, vivid scarlet, tubular, two-lipped blooms that blaze against its dark foliage. Each sturdy, maroon-tinged stem bears clusters of flowers so closely spaced they resemble glowing red torches. Plants typically reach heights of 90–120 cm and are at their best in compact groups, where their upright form and saturated colouring create a dramatic vertical accent. The name pays tribute to Britain’s Queen Victoria, renowned for her passion for horticulture and her lasting influence as a symbol of Victorian elegance—a reference perhaps to the cultivar’s dignified, commanding presence.

Before flowering, Queen Victoria forms a low basal rosette of lance-shaped to ovate leaves, rich in beetroot tones ranging from deep purplish-red to bronze-brown, with a glossy surface and gently undulating margins. As flower stems elongate, the foliage on them becomes slenderer and longer, often shifting to deep green with a purplish sheen in shaded parts, while maintaining its wine-red coloration in full sun. The plant forms a compact, dense clump around 30–60 cm wide, sending up several parallel vertical stems that retain their architectural form even in full bloom, lending clarity and sculptural structure to planting schemes. Removing spent stems will encourage a second flush of shorter stems with flowers.

This lobelia thrives in consistently moist conditions and—despite contrary claims from some growers—can tolerate lightly waterlogged soils, often performing better in them. Trials revealed that winter losses were caused not by frost but by drought. Plants in clay-rich, damp, or saturated beds retained healthy foliage throughout winter and emerged in spring to produce clumps twice as large as the previous year. Grow in full sun or light partial shade; the latter may reduce plant longevity. It prefers fertile soil of any pH and benefits from periodic applications of organic fertilizer during the flowering season. The plant contains toxic compounds and exudes a milky sap when cut, which may cause skin irritation in sensitive individuals. Slug attacks must be controlled as they are particularly fond of its stems and can cause extensive damage to the outer tissues right up to the flowering tips. This variety requires shelter from strong winds and is reliably hardy down to approximately –20 °C (USDA zone 6b), provided it does not dry out over winter.

Last update 10-08-2025