
Camellia 'ASHTON'S BALLET' hardy camellia
Camellia
Dreams tend to come true above all for those who refuse to accept other people’s assumptions that something cannot be done or is impossible. In the world of gardening this is doubly true. Until quite recently, it was believed that certain trees originating in subtropical regions, such as the silk tree for instance, stood no chance of surviving Central European winters. And yet it works, and the trees not only survive, they thrive and are beautiful. Even today, many gardeners remain sceptical about growing evergreen magnolias in our climate, despite the countless established specimens that prove that not everything is as we once thought.
The same is true of camellias, which until the end of the second millennium were enjoyed almost exclusively by growers in the warmer parts of Europe, with the exception of the driest coastal or mountainous regions, and by gardeners in the southern parts of the British Isles. Thanks to the enthusiasm, vision and, above all, the honest breeding work of two American botanists in particular, our green world has been enriched by these undeniably captivating, evergreen, flowering shrubs, in an ever‑increasing range of cultivars capable of withstanding temperatures of −20 °C to −24 °C in some cases, provided they are planted correctly. These remarkable men were Dr Clifford Parks (†2020) of the University of North Carolina, who focused primarily on spring‑flowering camellias and became renowned for his April series, and Dr William L. Ackerman (†2013) of Ashton, Maryland, who initially devoted himself to his passion for breeding highly fragrant camellias. Only after the severe winters of the 1970s and 1980s, when he witnessed countless mature and well‑established shrubs perish after a single harsh winter, did he have a change of heart, and his goal became to give the world camellias with enhanced frost resistance. Quite literally so, as he distributed his plant material freely, without seeking any financial reward or legal protection. His cultivars are predominantly autumn‑flowering, including both Camellia sasanqua and hybrid forms.
Although the exact parentage of some older cultivars appears difficult to trace and in many cases they are complex hybrids, we respect the accepted names in nomenclature, even when they are listed as Camellia japonica or Camellia sasanqua. Incidentally, did you know that the camellia was named in honour of Czech amateur botanist and missionary in the Philippines Jiří Josef Kamel? He himself never saw the plant, as the first specimen was brought from Asia to Europe only in 1739, thirty‑three years after his death. His significant contribution to botany was recognised by one of the greatest of all, Carl Linnaeus himself.
Ashton’s Ballet is an autumn flowering camellia from the Ashton series bred by dr. Ackerman and introduced in 1996. It is a cross between a very hardy species camellia oleifera and Shikishima variety (c. hiemalis). It produces utterly pretty, tutu-like, soft pink, semi-double to fully double, non-fragrant flowers that are medium large, 7-9 cm wide, with yellow stamens in the centre. Blooming depends on plant’s age – the older the plant the more buds. It can bloom for 4-8 weeks from late November.
Leaves are evergreen, broadly elliptic, gently serrated at margins, deep green, and glossy. The plant grow moderately into an upright, handsome shrub. Pruning is possible in spring after all frosts. Autumn flowering camellias have a huge advantage as opposed to the spring types – their flowers mature during summer so there is no risk of frost damage of the flower buds.
Camellias need similar planting like rhododendrons - once you plant them well you need not care for them. They require fresh, ericaceous (acid), peat-based, humus-rich soil that will never dry out but will not be water-retaining like clay. Even moisture and good drainage are key demands for good root growth. We strongly suggest using mycorrhizal fungi when planting. Never plant it too deep and if your soil is clay elevate the root ball accordingly. Fertilizing is recommended after flowering, once a month until late summer.
Crucial is finding a good location, and finding one for good - camellias detest transplanting. In the wild they grow under canopies of tall trees or at woodland margins. They dislike direct sunlight and both excess heat in summer and drying winds in colder months. Find a place at the back of the house away from winter and spring sunlight, sheltered from the north-west, or behind a tall hedge with some trees nearby to cast at least dappled shade during summer. Ever seen a camellia in full sun at the seaside? Remember that the air is so humid there that plants do not suffer from drying rays as they keep on drinking all day long. Before it establishes which might take 2-3 years provide enough moisture also in winter in the ground is not frozen but don't overwater! Mulch it well with bark mulch 5-10 cm high. Suggested hardiness is -20° to -23°C (USDA zone 6b).
Last update 11-02-2022
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- STANDARD QUALITY - Plants of this group are 1st class quality with number of branches and overall density adequate to their size and age, considering they were container grown.
- DE LUXE QUALITY - This label guarantees a luxurious quality of manually selected plants that, compared to their height and age, are exceptionally dense and beautiful.
- EXTRA - These plants are usually mature and bigger specimens with exceptional overall appearance.
- STANDARD (as described in the plant form) means a tree with a trunk of 190-210 cm and a crown at the top, unless specified differently. The commercial size for trees is their girth measured in the height of 1m from ground.
- HOBBY - These plants are of the same quality as our standard-quality plants but younger and therefore cheaper.
- SHRUB - a woody plant with branches growing bushy from the ground level.
- HALF-STANDARD or MINI-STANDARD - a small tree with shorter trunk, its size is usually specified.
- FEATHERED - These are trees with branches growing already from the base of the trunk and up along the stem.
- GRASSES and PERENNIALS - Sizes given usually read the diameter of the pot or the clump, as specified.







































